Thanks! I ordered it!

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Can you elaborate on what you mean? Mine have virtually no pedal travel and hard feel but stop on a dime so maybe I misunderstood what you were describing.

Also, the TV unit sits at a steep angle and the original master is cast in such a way as to mount at an angle but to have a level reservoir. It would be great if a proper one with top plate could be made but I expect it will never happed due to the hight cost and limited market. That said, I have never had a properly sorted system fail.

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Seems like there is an old discussion on the forum but don't think it has been tried. Think the consensus was you would not gain anything because the BTV works on the fact a large long stroke ram moves into a confined space and displaces or squeezes fluid out principle while modern masters work by having a fairly large piston pushing a volume of fluid ahead of it. The advantage of the fluid being forcibly displaced is lost so the BTV mod would be essentially an older booster instead of a modern booster. It would still need to move to get a decent pedal ratio to work the piston. That Chevy BTV replacement works as a direct swap for Chevy's because they mounted their BTV near the top of the firewall and had a high pedal ratio from the start.

To make a mod work a plate needs to be made to attach to the end of the BTV canister. It needs to generally follow what is in the mounting end of hydraulic portion of the BTV so it can be a rod guide, a rod support, and have seals so the vacuum can be confined in the canister portion. Whatever is used for a new rod must be smooth enough for a seal, substantial enough to be supported in the new plate and kept from tilting because the BTV ram end fits in a socket on the power piston and is the only thing that supports and keeps the power piston straight in the canister so it can move.

You might be able to make a thick plate that has a bore to provide the rod guide and seals for the vacuum. Also needs to be thick enough to have threaded holes so the new master can bolt to it. One end of the new rod must fit the power piston and the other end be narrow enough to be able to seat in the new master piston with its smaller diameter pocket sized for a modern push rod. Possibly the old ram could be machined to work but it is probably hardened. I think it was decided it was much work for zero gain.

Howard, thank you for your detailed response to my question

Has anyone tried to take a dual master, such as from a Chevy, and stick it on the Packard TV?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/belair/parts/PB10719.html

The most trivial reason to change polarity is to accommodate a solid state radio vibrator. I note that since, aside from my alternator, that's the only thing keeping my 400 as negative ground (originally positive).

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Haha, thankfully no. Still a pint over from the last oil change, at a shop where apparently adding the right amount of oil was too difficult. In line with the other services I received... so now I do much more myself 😅

That ebay gasket looks to be correct.

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True but the way the starter field coils and armature are internally connected if a change in polarity occurs both items also change at the same time so the magnetic relationship and rotation direction stays the same. Generators and ammeters do care as they typically need repolarizing and reversing connections on the ammeter before they will charge or read properly after a polarity swap. Regulators are another item that might care and coils work better with a change of connections to match polarity but will still work if left alone.

As a point of information as evidenced by all the accidental or sometimes on purpose changing of pre 56 cars to negative ground to accommodate modern radios or cell phones, starters and other electric motors Packard used as an original part do not care about polarity.