The vacuum line from carb to distributor shouldn't have any ongoing airflow through it. If it does, your vacuum advance unit is probably bad. Most older ones are. Once the diaphragm starts leaking, they continuously leak air to the carburetor and your automatic spark advance will be severely compromised or inoperative. It could be the cause of a hissing or whistling sound. I'd check the advance unit and replace the kinked line. A non-working vacuum advance will cause lower performance, a hotter running engine, and reduced gas mileage. For best performance, easiest starting, smoothest idle, and best fuel economy, both the vacuum and centrifugal advance need to be working properly.

That's it. Thanks for the info!

Couldn't get the link to go for some unknown.

I'd say it depends what kind and how they were stored. Most would be either paper or cork, maybe asbestos, if not metal backed. Cork, if it's not impregnated, deteriorates/crumbles over time.
If they were (packaged) stored out of the elements, heat, and light they might be OK to use.
They have some nominal value as patterns, even if they're a bit deteriorated.
I'd resist the temptation in the future if you're not sure what you're buying.
I usually make a kraft paper pattern when I have to make a gasket and label and keep the pattern.

Also decided to see what the Simichrome would do on my headlight rings….I’m pretty satisfied.

Attach file:

---

  IMG_7457.jpeg (415.89 KB)


  IMG_7458.jpeg (472.53 KB)

Still looking for a shop to get started on my car. In the meantime, I was able to get new hood louvres from Max Merritt. They come rough milled, so needed some polishing time. Started with 400 grit paper and worked up to 1200 grit, before finishing with Simichrome polish. Here are a few pics.

Attach file:

---

  IMG_7424.jpeg (345.13 KB)


  IMG_7429.jpeg (399.45 KB)


  IMG_7433.jpeg (333.75 KB)


  IMG_7434.jpeg (355.59 KB)


  IMG_7440.jpeg (322.52 KB)

Picked up a huge stack of NOS gaskets. I am wondering if they would still be good to use and what they might me worth. Any help would be appreciated thanks.




https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNsrBk5t1NHv0Cwr3aVML2aH8moFiH




https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPewxMOC1ztLaizvmJ-qEZUL5B3K0-75XYBgkM

Are you talking about these pieces?

If so, San Diego PAC chapter reproduces them and sells.them on their ebay store.

I just bought a set.

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20230514_133737_Messages.jpg (139.86 KB)

I need the small bracket that attaches to the radiator shell just behind the donut chaser that holds the center hood hinge in place. I think its different from the rear bracket that attaches to the firewall. The parts list does not show a picture of the bracket, but it does give a different part number for front and rear.

The Flackmaster pulled the above hubcaps and this map switch and socket out of a bin of rusty water.

I soaked the switch and socket in Evapo-rust for a few hours. The. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts.

Before the switch was pretty rust welded in place and wouldn't move. Now it works just fine.

Also, notice the difference in the map light socket and the regular dash light socket. This is to clear the wiper motor.

Attach file:

---

  20230513_183858.jpg (157.02 KB)


  20230513_211348.jpg (160.28 KB)


  IMG_20230514_101923.jpg (156.23 KB)


  20230514_093959.jpg (186.85 KB)

No change I’d sound when choke plate moved….I do have a pretty good kink in the vacuum line from carb to distributor …I have a new one coming in and will replace just to make sure that’s not the issue…if not back to carb…..