Howard,
When turn signals were installed originally, they added lights on the front, so they did not use the parking lights. The lights do fill the entire opening of the housing. I am not sure if the are the original type or not? The park lights are mounted inside and behind the sealed beams. Kind of tucked away, and not to be used. I've seen nice add-ons where they put turn signals mounted to the side of the headlights. If I am ever in a position to do an add on and bring the Park lights visible, the wires and sockets are there for use.

i dont know... is missed..

Bulbs and flasher were all it took. I had some of their 6 Ohm, 25 Watt "load equalizers" on hand just in case there was an issue with resistance. I will say, the back lights did initially give me a scare - you can't use one incandescent and one LED at the same time. The incandescent will work; the LED will not. Once they were both LEDs, the bulbs functioned as they should.

I need to do another video with at least the park lights on to demonstrate the difference between the running light and an active signal. Will work on that!

Change the bulb. I figured out how to remove the bulb(s) and replace. I was quite nervous to break off the tabs. While the bulbs worked for running and directional lights both brake light filaments were bad. I am good to go in this area. Off to replacing many other bulbs.

Thank you for sharing your experience with me.

The tracks can be taken apart and the needle bearings inside the rollers can be lubed. Also good to clean any dirt and grit out of them.

Now on my seat, the upholstered metal side panels that screw to the floor and the B-Pillar caused my seat to jam when in the full back position. After I removed the panels, the seat slides back and forth just fine.

In addition to my seat being an altered one from a later model, my seat was overstuffed at some point, probably to deal with the sagging. So both of those probably contribute to the binding.

So I'll need to figure out a solution to that. But that may be something to check. Also verify that seat adjuster handle is actually disengaging the track lock. Is you seat track helper spring still there?

From back to front at the center, my package shelf is 17 1/2" . The cushion and backrest angles seem to be typical. I don't think I could lean the seat assembly forward enough to move the whole thing back much. I haven't had the top down to see how much room it would need behind the seat. The seat tracks look like new, but are stuck. I'm pretty sure they're stuck all the way back.

Quote:
If this is the car where the original parking light bulb and location inside the enclosure was converted to accommodate turn signals I am curious how those bulbs are able to be seen or how mounting was done and still let you have a sealed beam conversion. Are your sealed beams the original type 7" diameter bulb used in that era which fills the entire surface of the housing?

Today I got the taillights headlights and turn signals wired.

Tail Brake and Headlights work. Still working on the turn signals.

With the sealed beams, I guess the Park lights up front are hidden until I add as fog lights or something?

Gas tank is next so I can start her up.

I'd check with Bob Stolfus in PA or Gerry at Packards Southwest in San Diego.

Spence, never apologize for being new to something. We all are new to something. Einstein remarked, "The more I know, the more I realize how little I know." Sounds like the early eight, like yours, doesn't have a block plug else you'd surely have seen it by now. While the access plates off, a lifelong Packard savant suggests putting a coil spring sorta brush on an electric drill and cleaning out as much of that scale as you can reach.

Several on this thread extol Evaporust, so must have merit. I did mine years ago with washing soda and kerosene and it's remained clean ever since.

Another friend had a nice '35 1201 (not 120) coupe-roadster, and i believe its water pump like yours had a packing gland requiring periodic grease. Some use boat grease. Yours should be this type. Others will better know. Cadillac was still using 1930-type water pump into the '40s, just as Buick babbitt bearings through '48.

Don't panic over using tap water. Some municipal systems are very good, principally greater NYC, which receives snow melt from the Adirondacks, and EBMUD (East Bay Municipal Utility District) serving much of us to the east of San Francisco in the lame overpriced, overrated, overpopulated corporate 'burbs. EBMUD receives snow melt from the Sierras. The real mistake is distilled water, which is ion hungry, so leaches minerals, like lead, tin, from your radiator and system. Do see the tech link on www.norosion.com. Everything you need to know about cooling system health.

You're doing fine as is. You've got a swell auld calash.