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Re: Converting back to six volt
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Jimmyk
The wire in question is number 44 on the old diagram

Posted on: 5/12 18:56
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Re: Converting back to six volt
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Jimmyk
Doing well so far on the re-wire…I’m stuck on one picture in the diagrams…the older Packard diagram shows a wire from the voltage regulator battery terminal running to the headlight junction block where it mixes with what appears to be a ground from the generator…the new diagram shows that same wire running into the side of the voltage regulator NOT to battery terminal of voltage regulator. I believe that the wire in question gets grounded to the voltage regulator somehow? Maybe one of the mounting screws? Or does it really connect to the batt terminal of regulator…I can’t see that being correct but that’s what I am seeing..I attached photos of the two diagrams…thanks!!
Click to see original Image in a new window

Attach file:



jpeg  IMG_0183.jpeg (1,080.01 KB)
191389_664156aa40098.jpeg 3264X2448 px

Posted on: 5/12 18:55
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Dealing with Slot-headed Screws
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bob J
I just finished installing slot screws to reassemble the gauges in the dash. It is tight and very difficult to start screws into their appointed holes. A magnetic screwdriver helps, but they still slip and fall off before the thread can start, leading to many adult words.
I found using some chassis grease on the screw's slot helps it stay attached to the screwdriver and stabilizes it enough to stick and stay until you can get the 1st few turns initiated.
Hope this helps others,
Bob J.

Posted on: 5/12 18:52
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Re: Don’s 1937 (120) 138CD Deluxe Touring Limo
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bob J
I asked the same question on the head of my car, I expect it is the same, a series of numbers unique to the casting plant, used for date codes, tool identification etc, as they likely had multiple tools to keep up with required volume. Any issues with castings can be sourced back to a specific tool, but I expect time and records have all disappeared long ago to know exactly what they mean today.
Bob J.

Posted on: 5/12 18:47
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
Home away from home
Home away from home

37Blanche
Thanks guys. Will try a supplementary ground next.

Posted on: 5/12 18:30
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Re: Don’s 1937 (120) 138CD Deluxe Touring Limo
Home away from home
Home away from home

Don B
Can anyone tell me what these numbers that are cast into the head are? One looks like a Packard part number, but I can’t seem to match it up to anything that makes sense.

Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 5/12 18:22
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Engine # Location on 1949 288?
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

Todd W. White
Hello again. I'm here with another neophyte question:

Where is the date code stamped on my 1949 288 engine? Search as I might, I cannot find any posts indicating WHERE to look for it.

Thanks for your help.

Posted on: 5/12 18:05
Todd W. White
Sapulpa, Okla.
1949 2262 DeLuxe Eight Touring Sedan
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Re: Pinion Seal Replacement
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Home away from home

Ross
You just need a CR 15620 from NAPA. That is a transmission rear seal for Ultramatics '51-'56. These are thinner than original, so if you really like,, you can stack two.

A pinion seal seals-------the pinion , on the rear axle.

Posted on: 5/12 16:50
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Re: 1937 120 Conv. Sedan - Blanche
Home away from home
Home away from home

Don B
Definitely sounds like you need a better ground connection. I did run supplemental ground from my sending unit to the frame of the car. Here are a couple of pictures of the ground I had before replacing my sending unit. I used the same connection with the new sending unit, but forgot to take pictures.

Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 5/12 16:12
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Re: Don’s 1937 (120) 138CD Deluxe Touring Limo
Home away from home
Home away from home

Don B
I did some clean up work today.

First, I made a second attempt with the wrinkle paint on the heater. I wasn’t satisfied with how it came out the first time and stripped it all the way back down and started over. It looks much better this time. I found that the key is to lay down a lot of paint.

Click to see original Image in a new window


Then, I removed more of the undercoating on the front section of the frame, everything I could get to. That was messy work. After that I coated everything I could reach with rust encapsulator paint. Here are some before and after pictures.


Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window



Click to see original Image in a new window


Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 5/12 15:59
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