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Re: Steering Column on 1937
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32model901
On the 120 Deluxe, in the factory literature "Steering pillar tube nickle plated at upper end".

Attach file:


pdf 1937-Packard-120-Deluxe.pdf Size: 3,679.70 KB; Hits: 14

Posted on: 4/7 7:36
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Re: Steering Column on 1937
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32model901
A few examples showing chrome plated steering column's. Not sure if it is original or not.

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jpg  37 Packard 1507.jpg (425.34 KB)
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jpg  37 Packard 1507_2.jpg (136.34 KB)
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Posted on: 4/7 7:03
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Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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humanpotatohybrid
Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:
Glad I'm not the only one dragging cars home! Pretty cool that the paint codes match on yours. And I have to say I like the stance on the new parts car. I'm sure the suspension is shot, but it looks nice just a touch lower to the ground.

Any good useable parts?


Thanks. What's funny is the paint codes don't match, but they both got repainted a bit wrong and it coincidentally matches now. The sedan is actually more off than the hardtop. Below is the original paint for both.

Yeah there's some decent parts. Will be using the rear seat at least... a lot of the trim I don't need. For example it came with an extra grille so I'll be selling 2 grilles... dash parts, various things.

I actually did double check that the hardtops and sedans used the same springs. The suspension on the car is VERY soft as you can see. Just worn out.

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Posted on: 4/7 5:42
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Rear axle help (54-55)
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humanpotatohybrid
Thanks redhexagon. I already have them off and used the method you describe with red grease on the contact point and on the puller threads.

Kevin, the puller we are talking about is the correct type. Maybe you are thinking of the "knock out" type?

By the way I didn't see any shims come off either axle.

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jpg  Screenshot_20240407_062619.jpg (432.24 KB)
225076_6612757b39ac4.jpg 1131X919 px

Posted on: 4/7 5:29
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Fuel line diameter
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humanpotatohybrid
Unless you're doing a concours restoration, it's no problem to straighten Cu Ni tubing by hand.

Posted on: 4/7 5:22
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Fuel line diameter
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Marty or Marston
If you are going to bend it yourself, I would suggest getting the copper/nickel alloy tubing, which is easier to bend that steel. Also, since it will come coiled up, I would suggest buying a tubing straightening device.

Posted on: 4/7 4:00
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Steering Column on 1937
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Marty or Marston
I have a friend with a '37 Twelve Touring Limo that has been accepted to Pebble Beach this year. He is going through the car now getting it ready for Pebble. The cars steering column was chrome plated before he bought the car. I've looked but can't find that a chrome plated steering column was an option in '37.

Does anyone know if that is true or false?

Posted on: 4/7 3:46
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Re: Steering Wheel Restoration
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Marty or Marston
I redid the steering wheel on my '32. Lots of cracks with were large areas where I needed to take it down to the steel rod. I used PC7 (a two part epoxy). I did 1/3 of the wheel at a time leaving a third of the wheel as a pattern. I sanded the steel when necessary to remove rust.

I found that when the 2 parts are mixed the material is stiff, but would slowly flow because gravity. My approach was to mix the material and wait an hour or hour or two (temperature dependent) and with disposable gloves I would apply to the wheel. I formed the indents for fingers following those on the "pattern". If it started to sag I reshape. I found that there is a point where the material could be shape using water moist hands to prevent it from sticking to fingers.

I left everything a little over size so it could be final sanded to correctness. Final shape of the finger grips were sanded. Second and third applications were made as necessary after sanding to fill voids or areas that needed it.

When completed it was primed and painted with a urethane enamel auto paint.

Posted on: 4/7 3:32
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Re: Rear axle help (54-55)
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kevinpackard
Quote:

Redhexagon wrote:
Grease the end of the puller where it contacts the axle and grease the threads of the puller with extreme pressure moly grease. It will reduce friction so you get more force on the hub. It also helps prevent galling damage to the parts. I also leave the nut on the axle to help protect the threads and to hold the hub on once it lets go.

Force of the puller alone is often not enough to free the hub. It takes both force and impact to free it.

1. Tighten the puller as much as you are comofrtable.
2. Hit the end of the puller hard straight-on with a sledge hammer several times.
3. The puller probably loosened some. Retighten it.
4. Hit it with the hammer again.
5. Retighten again.
6. Repeat until the hub breaks free like a gunshot.

No heat, no penetrating oil. Works every time.


I thought hitting the end of the puller was a no-no? Doesn't that damage the thrust block when you hit the axle like that?

Posted on: 4/7 0:14
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Re: hph's 55 Clipper Project
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kevinpackard
Glad I'm not the only one dragging cars home! Pretty cool that the paint codes match on yours. And I have to say I like the stance on the new parts car. I'm sure the suspension is shot, but it looks nice just a touch lower to the ground.

Any good useable parts?

Posted on: 4/7 0:06
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