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I don't know if that is a typo but if that is how it is currently wired the button should be on S (switch) and horns on H.

Thanks Howard. This is good. I have a hot reads on everything including the park lights and all the dash lights. They all “turned on” when I touched them with the voltage reader. I checked the horn relay and have the battery (B) connected properly as well as the horn button (H). I pulled the button off to confirm still intact and it is but I think I may resolver that just to confirm all is good on that end.

I have double checked all of the grounds to be sure they are intact with good contact.

I think I am going to move on to finish up the gas tank and exhaust to see if she starts if she does then this will help me narrow in on things. If she doesn’t. Well I guess we cross that bridge if we have too but…..

I hope to see Steelrubber shipment early next week so I can finish the lights.

Wish me luck!
Ben

That sounds good as to where you have power. Where you do not also sounds good because unless the engine is running the cutout relay in regulator would be open so nothing on A, F and G or ground.

There is a bit of discrepancy between the factory and AEA wiring diagrams on exactly where a wire connection to the starter switch is located but both agree the voltage comes from the same place.

AEA diagram is easiest to trace and it shows voltage originating at the starter solenoid BAT terminal and going to ammeter via a red wire. AEA shows black wires out of ammeter passing that voltage to the regulator, ign switch, headlight switch input terminal and the starter button. Discrepancy is where the starter button is actually tied to be powered from. AEA has it from ammeter, factory has it from the headlight switch input terminal which comes from ammeter so essentially the same place. You might see if you have power on the power input to the headlight switch.

What can be confusing is the factory originally had the starter being able to crank engine at all times although the engine would not start without the key on. When later models came out with the starter button powered thru the ign switch so it only worked with the key on some changed their earlier cars with always active starters to match later models. In that change the starter switch is fed from the ign sw GA terminal instead of ammeter or light switch. As to not having power on one side of starter switch and solenoid, that would be correct unless the button was pushed. Power on the other side would depend on whether the feed wire came from ammeter or ign sw.

Horns take a lot of current so make sure the feed wire is 12 ga and has good tight terminals. Might also double check to make sure the wires are on the correct relay terminals. B is bat, H is horn and S is the button. If the battery feed is not on the correct relay terminal nothing works.

No reset button on the regulator.

One place that may have what you're looking for.

https://www.nuclead.com/leadwashers/

Others can better answer the pulley question but on a two brush generator, one brush will connect to wiring going to the field coils and A terminal while the other brush will connect to case metal for the ground. If you check carefully where the braided lead from the brush with no other wire connects it is most likely being grounded to the case end plate by the brush holder or where ever the braided lead terminates.

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Hey all - wondering if anyone has a dial for the gearshift indicator on a 23rd series car. Group 3.30883, part 421707, would fit Ultramatic-equipped cars 2301-02-06-32-33. As you can see (in addition to the grand canyon of cracks on the steering), my plastic dial is all scuffed up. Wasn't sure if people just remake their own, or if it's supposed to be glass, or what. Would love to get something clear in there, though. Thanks!

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That's the exact puller I've used since the '60s and it's always gotten off any drum I have, even the huge 14" ones on Henney-Packards.

That's actually scary. That axle nut should have been torqued to around 225ft/lbs.

EDIT: Thanks again to Ross….I now understand that one brush is ground and a lot of rust on the end plate could be a big part of the issue. Got the pulley off with a puller and now also understand that the notch I was seeing is the notch for the key in the shaft. Now to do some good clean up and see if maybe that’s all it needs.

I’ve said it before, but it needs to be said again…I truly appreciate all the help from this network of people and the patience with those of us who are doing these things for the first time. I know many are likely scratching their heads and thinking “oh lord, what is this guy doing?” There is a one word answer to that….”Learning”?




Thanks…

Follow up questions…I decided to pull out the generator and take a look….

First question….the generator has two brushes that appear to be in fair condition. The springs operate well. Only one brush has a wire going to it. Is that right? I see no signs of any broken wires anywhere.












Second question….At this point, I decided I’d like to disassemble and clean things up and also see if I spot any obvious issues. The nut and washer came off the pulley fairly easily, but how does the pulley come off from here… There appears to be a retainer of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. Just has a single notch in it.

Back to the wiring. So I am testing each terminal for voltage to see if I can find where things are not flowing.

Getting hot reads on:
Both sides of ammeter
Both sides of ignition switch
Horn relay
Solenoid start switch for the opposite ends of horn relay and ammeter
Battery terminal for voltage regulator
All 3 terminals in the two way lamp switch


Where I am not getting a hot read
Passenger side of the starter button and opposite end where it connects to the solenoid starter
“F” “G” “A” on the voltage regulator
And same on the generator.

1. I would think the horn would work since I have voltage at all points and solid connection at horn button
2. I tested on positive and negative on all spots where I did not get a hot read
3. Everything worked prior to my wiring adventure. I did not touch move or change the regulator.

Is there a “reset” for the regulator? Or something else I need to do there? Pierre is hitting it at the one terminal it is just not flowing to the other terminals?

As far as the starter button to solenoid starter. Is there something in that connection that needs to be triggered?

Thoughts appreciated!
Ben