I just checked, I don't have any more gas pedals left in the horde of Steele Rubber I had.

Trying to figure out why the spacing between the roll up door windows and the convertible top swing up b-pillars is so tight. Tight to the point that stainless channel for the weather strip that mounts to pillar can't install without making contact with the window frame. There is no additional adjustment in the top mechanism. It's as far back as it can go.




I think it has to do with the position of the door window glass and possible the door window was either cut too large, of the setting tape they used is too thick. To confirm that I need the following measurements:

The space at top front of the glass, between the stainless edges.




And at the back bottom corner the gap between the stainless edge and the inside edge of the door window slot.




This will confirm if the door glass is sitting too far rearward and causing the issue I am seeing. Both these measurements are with the door window top dead even with the top of the vent window.

Thanks!

Thanks BigKev. I have a call into them tomorrow to get my accelerator revulcanized so ask them then.

Dash Ends or Windlace retainers. The hold the windlace in place where it comes up besides the dash. Steele reproduces the rubber piece that goes underneath it. I think they call them dash anti rattlers.

Even more important progress today. I got the spare engine off of its crate and on to an engine stand. I plan on doing a pretty thorough inspection of it. I took the valve covers and rockers off: the engine turns over well but has one very stuck valve. I already tried beating on it with a dead blow but to no avail. I did test all the spring retainers and they are the soft type, so I'll buy some new ones.

How do you remove the valves without the special tool?

Also: Looks like both of my water pumps are shot. Fortunately they are not too expensive. I removed my front two brake lines as templates to make some new ones. Will also be making a new fuel line. And grabbed my blower motor and I will bench test that. The carb is already rebuilt and mounted to a good intake manifold. I have a starter or two and a generator in good working order and I'll pull the regulator off my 400 which has an alternator.

Edit: thanks Riki but I managed to brute force it 💪💪

Engine reference threads:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=265679
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=268968

Get some trans oil or diesel oil on those thread's..

Last resort heat.

Quote:

They are NOS. (From a newer era though)

Thanks everyone. I think I will go with the new type riveted shoes if they are available.

If you are using it for 6 volts, the bulb is a 4515, 30W PAR36
For 12 volts, 4405, 30W PAR 36

IMHO fitting a higher diff ratio is a bit of a trade off in an older car as you do not generally have the horsepower to drive a higher ratio particularly in hilly country. The 5th Series Six has approx 85 hp gross which is probably 45 at the wheels. I have fitted a 4.38 ratio to my 7 pass 304 bodied 533 and with a trailer of old bikes attached it will sit on 50 mph comfortably and takes most hills in top gear. It would probably not pull with a 4.1 ratio. Peter Toet

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Got the front masked off and a couple of coats on the dash. Followed BigKev and used Dark Walnut.





Also, I am not sure what these are called. Just inside the front door hinge. I removed these as well and painted them but there looked to be padding behind them? Is this something our good friends Steel Rubber would carry? Thoughts on what it is called so I can track them down?