The seal I have doesn't seem to be staying in place. I nocked it into place using a pipe and hammer. It feels like it bottoms out, so that it is flush against the ring holding the bearing. But after driving, it slides out, and the transmission fluid drips out. Does anyone have the dimensions of the seal? It seems that some people call it a pinion seal, and others call it the trans. shaft seal.

Ok. I dropped the tank again. Reconfirmed ground. Did a ground in the gauge as well. Still no change. Then I hooked up my old original sending unit which worked fine before and same result. So it is not the unit since same results. I also tested by grounding the wire between the gauge and the sending unit and it did pop to full so gauge is in order. I am at a bit of a loss right now. The new unit is from Max M. Will call YnZ tomorrow and see if they have any thoughts.
Thanks for the feedback. If any other ideas please continue to pass along.
Ben

Odd

Good to hear from you. The inner tank has 8 holes for the screws that attach the top. In addition, it has 2 slightly larger holes 180 degrees apart that go over a small vent tube in the main tank, effectively locating the inner tank's position. Placing one of those holes in the inner tank over that vent will face the flapper forward and vice versa. I don't know whether it makes a difference, just asking.

Some of the pumps used what looked like a small gob of horsehair in the vent aperture. I'm not sure what retained it and kept it in place.... and out of the crank case.

Thanks for the trouble shooting chart Big Kev, another wonderful piece to our data toolbox!
Bob J.

The King-Seely gauges that use a resistive heating element and bimetallic "motor" are not polarity sensitive.

Another type, the "balancing coil" type, probably ARE polarity sensitive. Ford used a lot of the King-Seely type, and GM used a lot of the balancing coil type. Packard may have used both. The gauge schematic above looks to be a balancing coil type, with two tiny coils and a free-swinging needle.

When working properly, the King-Seely type will always park the needle at one end of the scale when turned off.
The balancing coil type may or may not have a default "Off" position.

Quote:

Both are saying they would be to the correct specifications. I just don’t know what Kanter’s actual source is.

I'm running my gauge on negative ground, and it works fine. So I don't think polarity is the issue.

I'd look at the fuel gauge troubleshooting chart. It goes through a few different scenarios. It the tank ground is missing it goes to hard empty I belive. But if it's shorted it goes to hard full.

Some problems can be between the gauge/sender/tank and some internal the gauge itself.

Also make sure the gauge itself is grounded to the dash. New paint makes a wondeful insulator.

Mount the inner tank and top cover where the location pin fitted, because it is to secure outside air to get access to the inner tank when the atmospheric valve opens at filled up inner tank. Check that the outside air passage is open.

I can’t speak personally for any of these sources but if it were me, I would be inclined to go with the ones that have the factory specifications. That said, in discussions with one of the companies for rear springs for my 1965 Cadillac, they said that they are made to factory specs and they had replacements for my car but they did not differentiate between self-leveling and standard when I know for a fact that they are supposed to be rated differently (the leveling system’s were softer).