My floor jack died entirely last year and after having to borrow my brother’s the last couple times I was at my shop (which meant lugging it over on a golf cart from a block away) I finally bought a new one. It was a cheapie but I like the dual action it has to get it raised quickly and it has a long range to go under the very low frame of my 1965 Cadillac or the very high one of my Henney-Packard.

On the steering wheel, I thought it was keyed to go on only one way or am I thinking of one of my other cars? In any event, I always specify to center the wheel when having an alignment done.

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I politely suggest you review what an ammeter even is and how it's wired into the car's electrical system, if the answer is not obvious.

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I wouldn't do this as you can damage your ammeter or the battery, though if you just tapped it briefly it's probably fine.

To me it just sounds like the needle is stuck. I would remove it an do a careful mechanical inspection.

I added the part numbers for all the rear end seals in the cross reference except the front main seal. There is a square O-ring and an inner and outer axle seal in addition to the front main seal.

But like Kev said, if it's only leaking a bit and the seals aren't ancient you can just top it off. Could be worth checking for axle leaks though—just take off the rear brake drum.

I assume 80W90 EP gear oil is appropriate since the manual calls for 90 weight, or 80 weight in subzero weather.

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Sounds like it's ready for Facebook Marketplace

You mention repacking the pump and it being good for about a 100 miles. I’m not sure how much it’s leaking, When it starts leaking again, have you tried just tightening the packing nut a 1/4 or 1/2 turn? I wonder if the new packing just “settled in” a bit and just needs the packing nut tightened slightly.

Be aware that a leaky water pump can leak air into the coolant at higher engine speeds. This can cause problems with the radiator overflowing, as if it was boiling, even if it isn't actually boiling. In addition, corrosion will be accelerated and steam pockets and local overheating, especially around exhaust valve seats, can occur. The pump can leak air IN when the engine is running, even if it doesn't leak water out when the engine is stopped. I'd replace or repair the pump now, rather than risk problems on the road .... and perhaps cracking a valve seat or two. The pump, fan, and pulley can be removed and replaced as a unit. Removing the right inner fender panel will give much better access to the radiator drain valve and to the lower radiator hose clamps. The panel is not very difficult to remove and replace.

I adjusted the play out on the steering box. It was pretty loose. Steering is much better now, no play in the steering wheel now.

The rest of the issue is more than likely with the front end alignment. So that next on the list. Once that is squared then I may need to pull off the stwering wheel and recenter it if the alignment doesn't square it. I've had the wheel off several times over the years and they was so much slop it's possible it's not in the exact correct position.

Also I've discovery my floor jack is reached EOL. It still lifts fine, but the release had become treacherous. It either goes down slowly as normal or suddenly falls. Yeah, not even going to mess with that anymore.

EP rated lube is fine for a 54 diff.

Drain the old fluid, fill with fresh. Nothing else needed unless it is significantly leaking.

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Most definitely and that is a caution that needs to be stressed again for anyone doing the recent mod to use a modern PM power window or a heater blower motor or going to the hi-torque mini starter.

Another caution is for anyone using a modern solid state replacement item such as a radio vibrator or the full radio conversions with various FM or Bluetooth modules etc or some of the TL control switch conversions. While some solid state items are polarity protected, most are not and if your car has any unknown solid state devices installed by a previous owner they can let their smoke exit quickly if polarity is swapped.

Many moons ago we used 90w pure mineral gear oil, in diffs, which is what it was designed for. You should be fine with 85/140, like was said above, or a RedLine "heavy" lube. Just a note of caution, the modern EP (extreme pressure) additives, over time, will degrade brass or bronze, so be wary of bushings
or maybe side gear spacers etc. in application. pb