I have your carburetor available...have sent private message with no reply??
Flackmaster@sbcglobal.net is my direct email I can email or post pictures.

This site is here to help.

DAF

Looks nice for price. I think the cost for the average DIYer to fix the various issues would be less than the value gained.

The hoses are more or less standard in that they fit many other cars besides Packard. You just need to bring in a hose for comparison. Napa even had them in stock for my 1951 Henney-Packard!

I have found the source of my rear brake blockage. The rear flexible brake hose. I noted the part number Packard Parts cross reference. AutoZone does not have a listing for the hose or any brake hoses for my car. I am guessing Kanter is my best option.

BRAKE HOSE, REAR original # 418240
ALL 55TH; 56TH 1955, 1956
new part # 88284
BRAKEWARE AUTOZONE

Madelyn is home again after being at my brother inlaws for two years!
I picked her up on saturday and gave her a season (near) end oil change.
I have a new favorite tool! I bought this cheap oil pump, and used it to suck the oil out of the filter canister!!! It worked very well, and was much easier than a Turkey baster, or the Hand pump that I had.
Since I have 3 cars with bypass filters, this will get used a lot.
In other news, I drove some more with the wideband O2 sensor, and think I will try fiddling with the carb. As it is, it seems a little fat at idle and low load, but leans out when I really get on it.
My plan is to lean the idle screws a little as a First step, then see if I can get Main jets that are 1 or 2 sizes up from the .089 inch jets that are Stock.

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My attachment screw must have been longer although I was careful to remove only the hex portion of the original. It extends out the same amount as the original so it can screw into the bezel full distance and still extends into the switch housing a fair distance. I had more trouble with getting the triangular shaft fitting the knob tightly than with the mounting to the dash.

As to the tail light ground, the bulbs do ground thru the socket shells which IIRC, is either crimped or held by push in socket prongs to the pot metal housing. 4 mounting studs screw into the housing and pass thru holes in the fender in spots sort of in the middle to lower third of housing. Ground is established to the entire tail light housing thru those studs and attaching nuts.

It seems that most of the 1956 400s were painted MK, like this car (Scottish Heather and Dover White). Most of those cars had a #86 interior (Black Cloth and Red leather). This car has (or had) a #85 interior (Black cloth and White leather).

A few months ago I installed a GM headlight switch. The switch itself is fine but the small threaded part that connects it to the bezel turned out to be way too small. It was only holding on to both parts with maybe 2 threads each. After pulling the switch a few times it just fell out.

I made the part from an existing part (and instructions from Howard) that came with the GM switch. It has a really unique thread (7/16-28). You cannot buy a bolt with that thread anyplace. So I had to make my own.

I had to buy a tap and die and a 7/16 steel rod. It only took 3 tries to get it right. I think it cost me about $45 to make this little part. You can see the size difference in the image below.

One question for you folks. How are the tail lights grounded? I assume that grounding comes from the metal bulb casing but the tail housing that it fits into does not appear to be metallic. Am I crazy?

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It looks like a very nice mostly original Packard at a reasonable price! Someone here should snap it up.

Incidentally, the air cleaner shown on the Hemmings listing is for the 1953-1954 327 engine. The one for the 359 was unique and quite different.

Walk thru an amazing automotive parts store / warehouse closed for 23 years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CiHOh36tAY