Howard & Dave,

Thanks for your inputs. Looking at the car & switch the left side looks the best for the switch. in all of the boxes of parts that i have for the car the vacuum assist for the clutch does not appear to be an option that this car had, but I'm thinking it is one the wife would like to see it equipped with.

I'm guessing that it might help if I were to ask is the lever for the electrical switch on the left side of the steering wheel?

I'm wrapping up installing the electrical on the car and have examined the image of the steering wheel (see insert) to determine how everything goes together. I can't tell which lever (see Red Arrow) goes to the right side and which goes to the left. Does the lever with the greatest amount to lift go to the right or left side? Also, there are two knobs one of which is chrome and the other a reddish phenolic material. I believe that the red goes to the left.

Attach file:

---

  (144.94 KB)

Dave,

Thanks for the quick response. I'll be saving a copy of the chart with my reference materials for the car. I only have one bulb and it does not have a readable number.

I'm getting ready to finish off the electrical on the car. I understand that it is impossible to find bulbs for the head lamps. I've looked in the Service and Parts Manual but don't seem to find any reference for the ones that go in the 1) tail/stop lights, 2) dash , 3) dome, and 4) reading lamp. Does someone out there have the bulb numbers that I should get?

I can't tell from the photo in the catalog, but does the P/N 350.050 have a shiny bead or not?

I had the original channel from my '32. It had a shiny bead, not sure if it was nickel or chrome. That is one of the reasons I select what I did and that the lining was the closest looking to the original channel's felt. I'm not sure if the '28's had channel with a shiny bead or not. I'll leave that to someone else to input on.

One thing for sure, when it comes to restoring an car that is 80 to 100 or more years old it sure isn't easy to select substitutes for items that haven't been available for decades.

I bought mine from Rubber The Right Way for my 1932 901. I used their flexible run channel which i think is P/N 10-014X. It looked like the closest match that i could find. When it is installed, you can not tell that it is a flexible channel. I was able to nail it to the wood frame at the bottom of the channel. I used black serrated nails that I got from the hardware store about 15 or 16 guage. I drilled a hole through the run channel and a nail set to bury the head into the material in the channel.

I would suggest you order a sample of the channel to compare it to yours to make sure it will work for you

It would appear that there are two locking rings lying on the grass. That the rear wheel is missing one.

David - Thanks for your input & the reminder about the nailing strip on the back of the seat.

While the wood may look like oak, you will want to use ash or maple. Oak has tannic acid in it and as such is corrosive to steel. Also, make sure that the wood has a low water content (e.g. kiln dried).