I believe Kanters website defaults to the Buick listing so that is why it says Buick in the selection. If you select Packard, any year, it will change to that listing and price but the picture is the same. The generic one fits all picture approach could lead to confusion and possibly a disgruntled customer IMHO.

All the more reason I like Merritt's website and others like his rather than Kanter's generic one fits all approach. Max's website, ebay stores of packards1 and others usually have a decent picture of what you are buying. Also, not knowing the specifics of either pump in this case as to rebuilt or new, a better price it would appear.

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Assuming nothing else was unbolted in the front so the bolt that threads into an oil passage was incorrect or missing the copper washer and converter plugs are tight, that only leaves the front seal. They have been known to crack and fail suddenly like that if old & hard. You should be able to see an oil trail coming from behind the converter if that's the cause. A relatively easy fix if the pump shaft and bushing are OK-just a PIA to remove & do.

As to whether you are better off going modern, that is a question you would have to work through. Your car does have a few modern touches so the originality does not seem to be that major a deal breaker. The reliability and serviceability of a modern unit would obviously be there --- IF AND ONLY IF you get a decent conversion. Problem is that there are so few options--only a couple of places seem to be doing them. Those I recall so far that have posted having a conversion also seem to have an issue of some kind.

If I were going to do it, believe the GM with the modified bellhousing rather than extra plate with adapter Torqeflite would be the better choice. Jack Nordstrom does a TH400 for the Studebaker Golden Hawk along those lines--although being for a Hawk, lots of things you would probably have to do as well to fit in the Packard. Don't know if any one else picked up doing the other unit--700R4 I think--after one shop quit doing them. Don't remember anyone specifically mentioning the GMs but The Chrysler conversions seem to have the issues--but also maybe because there are more of them.

I expect you are also looking at every bit of cost and maybe even more than it would take to have the Ultra rebuilt to have a conversion made.

Driving may free things up but depending on how bad or persistent, may not really be much of an option in the San Joaquin Valley where we live. Being further North, Modesto may be a bit better off but because of the same blue smoke problem, a good friend and his 54 daily driver was turned in to the air resources board by some person with nothing better to do. He was cited, fined, and given two options--fix it or park it.

I believe it's purpose is to increase cold driveability and hasten the warmup and help gas vaporization when really cold and also so choke releases a bit quicker when coming up to temp.

Many have been found blocked open either on purpose or thru rust and deterioration and except for a few minutes in really cold places, doubt if missed that much. If stuck closed on the other hand, on older engines overheating and exhaust valve damage could result.

Not much of value in the service manual but in this instruction for dealers installing factory air kits there is a fairly decent procedure starting on page 3.https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/55-56ACInstall.pdf

Since you won't be installing the AC, you can read through and decide whether you can eliminate some things. Not all removal they mention will be necessary. For example, removing the seat gives more room but not really necessary. There might be some minor difference in wire locations or colors as well between 55-6.

Do protect the steering column with padding and a second body is very helpful.

This thread shows a commercially made toolhttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=626#forumpost626 available from some vendors. You can also make one by using 1/4 inch hex stock --may be available locally at an electronics supply or good hardware store as it is commonly used as standoffs-- and drilling a 3/16 hole down the middle. If no luck with purchase, there is a vendor for the material also cited in the thread. Radio shack may not be the best option any more as we are finding out but McMaster-Carr or MSC may be a good alternative.

There have been successful uses of small screwdrivers but if you choose that method, be careful as one slip can scratch quite well.

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Don't know if vacuum wipers but if so does it have a vacuum section on the fuel pump that might have deteriorated and allowing oil to be sucked in?

If you mean the plastic wheels, not sure how many are still doing it. A couple of links I had are no longer active. Here is one that has been around for awhile and while their pictures look good, don't know of anyone who has actually used them. They do have a show schedule if anything is in your area where you can look at the quality. Maybe worth a phone call.http://www.qualityrestorations.com/packard.html

The painted hard rubber of the lesser models can be repaired with any number of substances, re-sanded and then repainted. There are several places that offer supplies and instructions on that type.

Here is the start of traumjaegercat's pics on his 34 valve since more than one thread comes up.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=32136#forumpost32136