Thanks to all for your imput. Since it looks like I will be hanging upside down to deal with the trouble shooting, I have blown up the three page wiring diagram to billboard size so that I can read it without a magnifying glass. The speedometer needs changed and I was able to locate a used unit through a friend in Tennessee. SO--- the current plan is to test the speedometer, get it lubed,and then begin my contortionist routine.
I have purchased a new circuit breaker which I will install on the original light switch and then begin by pulling and tagging the dash light sockets to remove the speedometer and check the sockets for frayed wires in the process. If I am able,to get the speedometer changed before deciding to sell the car or end up in rehab from twisting and hanging under the dash, I will reinstall the switch, check to see if the breaker still kicks and if it does, begin pulling individual plugs to the switch to try to isolate the cause of the problem.
To clarify as issue raised by Custom clipper, the wires on the Caribbean are not cloth covered. As the rep from Kamter asserts they are plastic coated. I considered securing and installing a new wiring harness when the car was disassembled and off frame, but despite the general deterioration of the fenders and quarters, the wiring was in singularly good shape,overall and after tracing and cleaning the wires it was decided to stick with the wires that came with the car rather than hoping that a replacement harness would be of equal quality. We did install NOS headlight buckets with new sockets and wires and replaced the tailight and license plate lights with resorted units.
I will keep you posted on my progress.
As an aside,,I am continuing to explore the possibility of following Leeedy's post on securing material for the top and having it dyed to match the interior to replicate the original top. I have been having difficulty in securing a bright white pinpoint nylon with a tan or white inner liner. Bill Hirsch was able to supply a sample with a tan backing but the color is not quite white enough. If anyone knows of a supplier who offers white/'white or white/ tan material please advise. I have found a supplier in California who assures that they can match any interior color with a spray or roll on dye and will provide the info as soon as I can have a test patch. At this point, I have been unable to find a major manufacturer of tops for the Packard who is willing to make up a top from the dyed material which may require finding an upholsterer who will tailor a top for the car. That promises to be an expensive venture for a car that I do not intend to show.....but it would be nice to have it done right
Keep me posted of any other suggestions on the lights. Or the tops.

HH - Well I guess it was too much to hope that anything with the Caribbean would be simple. The wires at the tailights, trunk and license plate lights look fine.
I crawled under the dash and pulled the headlight switch and replaced it with one I had from the parts car- the short still exists and kicks the breaker.
There are essentially five plugs into the headlight switch. On the inside of the switch there is a pink/ green double at the rear near the circuit breaker; a brown single wire plug and a gray wire plug on the same side. There is a small black wire that plugs into a socket on the top right side of the switch and heavy double black wire that plugs to the outside of the front of the switch with the thinner wire plugging back into the switch on the outside of the switch near the center of the left side.
As a beginning diagnostic, would pulling each of the plugs individually and activating the parking and headlights allow narrowing down the area where the short is occurring.
Tracing the wires from the switch seems fairly routine.
Sort of hoping it is not a shorted wire in the dash lights-- hanging upside down over the seat was no fun at all.
Didn't mind the position so much 50 years ago.LOL
Thanks
RJR

Oz- The photos of the car- before and after did not download. They were JPEG but probably too large. The body number and serial number were for Owen's data. I agree that without the explanation it appears to be a unique way to present the car.LOL. I think I will leave it that way.
Stay well
RJR

Tried to add my 55 Caribbean last night. Apparently didn't work and today cannot access 1955 at all.

HH- Thanks for the quick reply. I recently pulled the tank to change the fuel sending unit and problem developed after that. Good place to start looking for a short. At least I fit better under the car than under the dash. I'll post my results. Thanks again for your help.
RJR

New problem developed today. Headlights and parking lights are apparently kicking the circuit breaker on the headlight switch. In either parking light position or headligh position the headlights( or parking lights) and tailights will come on - then shut off. They will reset and come back on and immediately shut off and repeat the cycle.
The lights worked fine until now.
Considered a short in the circuit that would kick the breaker but doesn't make sense that same thing happens with parking lamps.
First impression was bad headlight switch or circuit breaker but seems to function to turn on lights and circuit breaker is obviously working and resetting.
If anyone has a quick. Long distance trouble shooting tip -'would appreciate any help before tearing things apart.

I bought carpet set for my Carribean from a guy who sells stainless steel brake lines - mostly for Corvettes. He also makes the lines for the Packard and they are the best parts I found in 4 years. Perfect fit.
Anyhow. He was restoring a Caribbean and discovered that no one offered carpet of the correct material and pile. Went to a carpet company to get the correct carpet produced but they would only make up a batch of something like a thousand square yards. Surprisingly, he ordered it and had the carpet dyed to various colors. Not sure if he has your color, but he had correct green for mine. Has an upholsterer that makes up the carpet sets if you don't have someone to do it.
I'll have to check my paperwork for the address.
Nice guy to deal,with. I think the cost was about 25% more than I was quoted for replacement set elsewhere .

I changed the bezels on my dash while it was out of the car. It was no fun and I symathize with Kev if he tried doing it while the dash was in the car. I was not sure if the tabs would hold so I put a few dabs of clear silicone on the back side. Hopefully, the next owner will have to deal with removing them.
One aside- I swapped out all of the gauges but did not have the speedometer rebuilt since it seemed to be working. It doesn't work now and I am not looking forward to hanging upside down to swap it out now that the interior is installed. Might be worthwhile,to,avoid,my foible.

I would echo the comments by Magnolia. What you want to accomplish with your project will determine the ultimate cost. If you have a complete interior a quality upholstery shop can work from that material or photos on this site or others to create a factory quality interior. It will not be cheap.
Likewise, a matching number engine would be something to hope for in a show car but the cost of taking a car to Pebble Beach quality will probably exceed the current value of the car....unless you do much of the work yourself.
Jack Vines who post frequently on this site has offered completely restored 352 engines for less than what I paid to have mine rebuilt by a friend who runs a local rebuild shop. The accessories- particularly the dual quads and batwing with proper linkage are now running more than the cost for an engine.
There are no real restoration or judging guidelines out there for the Caribbean and this site will be your best source for getting the car back together.
I am at the tail end of getting a basket case back,on the road and hope that you enjoy the process. These are not cars that anyone should hope to restore and retire on the profits.....but they are amazing cars.

I just watched a Jay Leno's Garage video about an outfit called Derilect that installs a new Morrison Chassis and drivetrain under old cars to make them handle and perform like today's high performance cars. The featured car was a late 1940's Buick Comvertible that to all outside appearances looked like a barn find- bad paint, deteriorated chrome....the works.
The driveline was a 700 hp Chevy big block with 4 wheel Wilwood discs and rack and pinion steering and other modern features neatly concealed.
It was an impressive car that I am relatively sure set the owner back over 6 figures.
Changing a motor on your Packard to a SBC will not enhance the value of the car in itself and will make purists crazy. It is your car and you can do with it as you please. I just suggest that you do a bit of thinking about what maintaining the car will cost and what use you plan for the future. Modern higher power engines should be mated to older cars with brakes, suspension and steering upgrades to match or you risk injuring yourself,or others. If you do not plan to drive the car as your primary mode,of transport, finding a replacement engine or having yours rebuilt should end up costing no more than converting to the SBC and with less hassle over mounts, and other needed adjustments.
You must like the looks of the car or you would not have it. Getting it running and operating safely should be the primary concern. Just have fun with it