There are several types of drill guides available but the better quality ones are a bit expensive for one time use. A small machinist square and good eye can be used or a tapping guide might be used also--if the hole size is close. A less robust item could be made if you have access to a drill press. A straight hole thru a block of hardwood could be made. A length of metal tubing or bushing stock with ID lightly larger than the drill bit could be inserted so the drill bit wouldn't mess it up and assy clamped against the block to guide the drill.

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Just be sure to measure the old positions before removal. Without the special install tool, looks awfully easy to push the rear one in too far and block the fluid passage or the front one down partially into that cavity. Maybe no big deal but why take chances.

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There were some models in the 51-4 timeframe that used a chrome like strip on the panels, very thin, almost like a thick tape material with an embossed pattern on it. Today, with modern adhesives I could understand how it was held but thinking back, it also appeared to be attached via some type of adhesive since there were no prongs. Not that many great adhesives then so does anyone know what this was or how it was attached. I remember pulling it off the fabric and it was adhered very well but nothing mechanical seemed to be holding it.

Wouldn't surprise me and since I never watch Letterman, couldn't tell you. Leg pulling or not, Fred (or Dave) does have a valid point or two--maybe not the screwdriver but definitely the getting in without a chiropractor and the parking lot. They didn't advertise "chair high seats" for nothing and if you did find a space wide enough to get out of the car, the Packard would still tower a foot above almost anything else except a semi.

Not offended at all and hope not to come across that way either. Also believe I mentioned the curse of being long winded so sometimes the keyboard gets ahead of the remaining brain cells.

As to the import question, it's a subject I hadn't spent a lot of thought on and the original question gives a lot of room for interpretation and various answers.

I just spent 20 years working for an Asian company where practically everything was imported and, with a couple of low end exceptions, was of better quality than the comparably priced domestic equivalent--not that there is much made here to compare with anymore. The real competition came from other foreign companies both in Europe and Asia and the lone US brand selling in the same market has most of it's product made elsewhere but sold under the well known label.

The parts book was no help as it just lists X for the number of washers but the manifold install procedure does state to install the nuts and washers and doesn't list exceptions. Also covers the alignment issue.

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I stand corrected but will still go on the limb and say there will be very few more. Maybe some models but anything where millions are sold I still think will have mixed content or assembly points. I know the original question was about individual import parts. Well, anything for this car obviously will be an imported part for an imported car.

Guess the question now would be if Napa or Autozone sells a switch at less than the dealer under the Echlin brand or Standard brand. Both high quality but will it be one re-boxed but made in Japan right next to the originals or something commissioned and made in Mexico or China and how would you differentiate an imported part.

That's great. Wonder how we made the big time. Intrigued about repairing with the use of just the handle though. As to never losing one in the mall, with the narrow space striping in so many now, you almost have to find a section by yourself just to get the back half of the car out of the traffic lane or you out of the car. If you can't get out, you can't lose it.

A nice find. Amazing what gets stashed and forgotten.

Would be surprised if the cylinders still held without leaking, but believe Hydro-e-Lectric at one time had repro cylinders and inline solenoids for the prewars. They haven't advertised them recently so not sure if still available--although they do say call if you don't see an item listed. I believe I saw an ad some time back with Kanter listing some as well.

Linear actuators do have appeal for the simplicity of no fluid running around. Unless you are going to add AC though, cost of 12v conversion & designing the control circuitry and then machining whatever is needed to make things work might be more than replacing the cylinders since you have the rest of the system. No idea how plentiful Lincoln or Chrysler components might be either but whatever you choose, will be following the progress.

I believe there is a % requirement to be considered a domestic vs imported vehicle but I don't know what it is. Thought there was also a combination of where was design work done and vs parts origin vs assembly point a factor.

I seriously doubt you can find one car anywhere anymore that is all made or has all content from a single country. I do believe both quality parts and cheap junk is available from any country and relative price is usually the determining factor. Unfortunately that is becoming very hard for the end consumer to judge anymore with so many variables country to country in the world economy. That's when you have to start trusting your dealer.