Also, no such thing as white - that I know of.


Actually there is a permanent white paint marker or Sharpie. We use them a lot for identifying our darker power cables and works very well.

Would be a good way to stripe the wires. Make a small block with a hole large enough for wire on one side, a larger hole that met it at 90 degrees for the pen point--whatever color-- and then enlarge the wire exit hole larger than the wire so it wouldn't touch & smear. Hold the block in a vise and just pull the wire thru -- a nice stripe should result.

Google white sharpie marker and several places selling them come up.

It is nice to have x-ref included in search and the format is good. I don't think the lack of group numbers would be a deal breaker. Although it could narrow things down, I think most would just type in the name of an item and hope their name for something is the same as how it is listed. That would be the only advantage providing people knew that feature was there.

On the search, advanced search still seems to be bringing up every category or place a word is used even though only one box is checked. If that is how it is supposed to work, seems a waste of real estate to have all the categories with check boxes if they don't do anything.

A good point for clarification. I always assume too much since we had progressed to weight removal. In order to check weights and drive was what I should have been specific about when suggesting jacking it up..

Wish I had something more to offer as to what to check but the only governors I have ever seen are these. The one installed is on an R9 and same number goes as far back as 41. The NOS is for the 24th series on. There is, however, another part number used on the 22nd and 23rd series which might be the one you have--but again, don't think I have seen one with the square bottom. Maybe someone with another 22-23 R11 can confirm. Phils38 does have a good suggestion but would mean jacking it up and running it up until switch point.

At this point, the toggle switch is an option or you might try and make a wrench to remove the one you have and check out the drive end. If the continuity check at speed is no good, then could be either drive, weights, or switch. I'm curious at least as to what went. Even though space is tight, and Ross says it is a pain, it was supposed to able to be removed in the car.

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BH
Therefore, everything below the masking line for the upper color on Caribbeans got sprayed in the middle color - including the parking light area. On my unrestored H/T, it appears that the factory then masked for the lower color, from the rear of the front wheel opening, and rearward. (In fact, I have found traces of Socttish Heather under the Maltese Gray on my H/T.)


I agree the evidence shows that's how it was and also in O_D's statement of staunch believers the other direction as well -- which is probably where I fall. Even though I'm in agreement with the consensus how it was apparently done originally, I think it is one of those minor overlooked details that really makes you wonder what were they thinking and why.

Mine is wrong, I know it, but I had it done that way on purpose because that glaring 1" slit of red above the bumper just didn't seem to flow right with the gray bottom. On a car with more subdued colors, maybe not as big a notice. And my apologies also for going off topic and on a rant.

BH wrote
Of course this area is covered by the ribbed stainless insert. The lower body color natually appears on the parking light area of the two-tone cars, but they couldn't do that on a tri-tone Carib, where no ribed trim is used.


I'm not quite following your statement that they couldn't do that on a tri tone car because of the ribbing. Logically, since the areas are the same width and there is ribbing and a bottom piece of chrome, to me it would be lower color and no big deal to paint it. We must accept that it is not though and the way Ross describes the procedure, I would suspect it was more they didn't want to bother with the additional masking for that tiny area that was half covered anyway. As to the wheel wells, inner fenders and oversprayed areas, I really wonder if the other luxury cars of the time were that careless.

Here's a page showing more than you ever want to know about wire. At the bottom is a chart showing the designations and differences of the various types for your reference.http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

The ign wire brackets were a fairly late changehttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL30NO3.pdf

The hose clamps should be the wire type and there are some vendors selling kits of the correct ones. Some on here have bought them and can point you their direction. Just make sure the hoses you use with them are not the cheaper smaller diameter type sometimes found in parts stores now or the tension might not be sufficient.

Believe the clutch comes complete. That one does seem to have a bit of wear and flaking cork, so good thing you looked. Being a 23rd series, there are some unique parts --particularly if an early trans-- and the throttle rod is a one series only. Believe that has the bellcrank pivot on the side of case and is a two piece setup. There are dimensions for single piece 51 on but I don't find anything for that. Ross might have some suggestions on straightening and getting it adjusted properly.

Another congratulations. Interesting the TL switch isn't mentioned in 55 OM--just a bit in lube section. Would have thought they would have promoted that quite extensively. Here is out of 56 manual

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