There is not a simple or single how to do it article on site here. Use the search box at upper right and search for 12v conversion. There are quite a few things to consider and some pitfalls but it can be done if you are not worried about authenticity and just want modern convenience. There are many threads on one aspect or another but just about everything is covered. You might also check out Big Kev's blog as he is doing just that on his 54. You'll have to skim thru as pieces are mixed in as he progresses.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=57&forum=10

One site does have a printed guide for sale but I have not read it and am sure it duplicates most of what has been discussed here.http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/index.html

Glad he got his cars back. Model T's & A's make horrible getaway cars these days and parts might be a little hard to fence or move--even in Detroit. The PU on the other hand, is undoubtedly history.

A good theory. If the switch felt mechanically good and you heard the solenoid come in and no action, not much else left is there. Be interesting when you change them if you tore it apart and let us know.

It may be factory special order but think rather than coming from the factory that way, it was changed later -- maybe by the dealer or possibly one of the gauges failed and the owner went to a local yard, picked up a cluster that was available and liked what he saw or changed the bunch so all matched. The senior gauges do look more "class" than the Clipper ones. Alternatively, he had a preference for full instruments instead of idiot lights.

The actual outer cluster case which mounts to the fiberglass dash has a Stude part number but all other items in the Stude 57L 17XX-X instr. grouping cross directly over to 56 Clipper 648XXXX series instruments and will fit without any mods except for an oil sender change. No senior instrument numbers are there at all. What would be interesting would be the ammeter connection. Not normally there, if that looked factory or professional with an extra idiot light wire unused would give a clue.

It might be a tad low for a fairly rare car that looks to be mostly there but still needs a lot-- but on the other hand, you might be dealing with someone who looked at Hemmings, saw all the restored cars going for 10 times that much, and figures his should too. Did he give any idea what he expects.

Here is a link to a thread about common things to check on cars and some tools to take that might be needed as well. Most are more directed toward V8 specific items but some general items could apply to all.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=3999&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

O_D probably gives the best advice. I'm not up on that era so just rust and completeness would be all I could suggest.

Believe vapor lock can happen at anytime the temp & conditions are right for the gas to percolate. It happened on a 56 I was riding in while going up a mountain road. Not something I would wish anyone have to duplicate by the way.

The car stopping might have some other causes as well. Coils have been known to open when hot and re-establish when current stops flowing long enough for the windings to cool down--other electrical components also can do the same. Did the car just quit abruptly or sputter a bit like it was running out of gas.

Tough luck! I had a 54 359 sleeved over 10 years ago for the same reason. Also used the opportunity to have hardened exhaust valve seats installed. Current owner drives it several times weekly & says all well and going strong.

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I think it's in the midst of one of the 12v conversion threads or possibly one of those on foreign vehicles that was removed. Believe the subject came up when we veered off the original topic and another poster asked if anyone had seen or knew where to get a 12v something or other.