Assuming the engine isn't frozen, you should be able to turn it over a bit by either (a) taking out the spark plugs, grabbing the fan belt to tighten it, and turning the fan by hand. That failing, (b) drop the clutch cover and turn it using the teeth in the flywheel. Special tools are made for this, but you can also (gently) use a large screwdriver into the gear teeth and fulcrumming on the bell housing edge near the flywheel.

If you don't succeed with either method, most likely your engine is frozen. That normally occurs when piston rings rust to the cylinder walls, though it can get much worse than that. You could remove the cylinder head and put some of your favorite snake oil on the top of the pistons, allow it to soak for a week or so, and try (again, GENTLY) tapping on one or more of the piston heads that is neither fully up or fully down. A product known as PB Blaster would be a great choice for a rust buster, others prefer using ATF fluid. Forget WD-40 for this purpose.

The original fluid was known as Type A, used by Packard and others but it's no longer available. The closest modern fluid to Type A is Type F (readily available), followed by Type FA (also quite common). You'll find some folks who say they switched from Dexron/Mercon to Type F and noticed considerable improvement (I'm one of them), yet you'll find others who have found Dexron/Mercon more suitable. I'm not convinced its a critical decision unless you have clutch groan on shift into direct drive with Dexron, in which case I'd strongly suggest you go to F or FA.

Thief-proof number identifies it as a 1938.

Of course the oil pan comes off without removing the engine. You might consider checking the shop manual, but often you need to rotate the crankshaft a bit to get the clearance for the plan to come down.

I don't have my Twelve parts book handy, but as I remember there was a faceplate for each rear axle ratio.

Kevin, these V12 units aren't real tachs but simply speedometers with a scale of rpms printed around the face to show engine revs in high gear. There are a few Packards around with real tachometers that were perhaps some sort of later option though I haven't researched it. But not this one.

You can test the horns individually by just applying power to them, for example with a jumper wire from the battery hot post. Or you can check both (3 on some models) by just using a jumper to ground the terminal of the relay that goes up the steering column. If the horns power and honk individually but not by grounding the relay terminal, then the relay is suspect.

Some of you may find this interesting. I don't remember the source right now, and no doubt it probably doesn't apply with equal validity to all vehicles w/o hardened seats.

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Yes, Twelve only.

Two comments. Here is NJ is just paid $3.81 for regular (non-branded) gas yesterday, down from a high of about $4.05 a few weeks ago. Seems a bargain!

Concerning tetraethyl lead and octane, I pretty much agree with the prior comments of Rusty who is always right on target. Before I had my 34 Eight rebuilt (has hardened exhaust seats now), I bought regular gas (87 octane, and certainly didn't even need that) and added genuine tetraethyl lead every other fillup, not to increase octane (CR is only about 5.5/1) but for valve stem and seat protection. Whether I really needed it probably depended primarily a bit on driving conditions. If I were to drive the car at 55 mph or so (the practical limit, esp. with the 4.69 rear) for sustained periods the lead was probably useful. For just local driving I probably could have gotten along fine for tens of thousands of miles without it.

My 56 Caribbean gives quite a bit of ping even on modest acceleration with 91 octane, and even Sunoco 93, and knocking back the timing a few degrees so degrades the performance I decided to add tetraethyl lead to boost the octane, and continue to do so. Perhaps the heads were milled once, don't know. I keep looking for a set of the export head gaskets which reduced compression for the generally lower grades of gasoline then available overseas.