Randy, do you have any more info. That sounds like something that might be nice to add to the reference list. Didn't see anything (quick look only) other than WS on Steels Packard pages.

Believe this started with you and a 47 and not sure exactly what you're wanting to swap or which engine you have. There is an article on later engine swaps to postwar cars with 356 engines in 1953 SC Vol 27 #7 detailing what you need and mods. That only covers the engine so you'd be on your own to figure out trans mount, linkage etc. Suppose you could install eng trans as a unit but you'd still have to figure out how to hold up the back end because I think the frames are a bit different in that area also. Available on website here.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?81

Edit: The URL to articles seems to have been truncated. It is item 14 under service bulletins in case it doesn't work for you.

Starting to sound like someone was into making stretch limos long before it became the ride of choice for the younger set.

my 2c says maybe some fade, glare and/or bad lighting. The seat bottom is green in pict before and in the last pict, back is a different shade of whatever color we're speaking of.

Here's the 3 reasons Packard noted for sticking in prk, but it sounds like your lever is stuck in park but not the actual trans since drive shaft turned. I would have thought these caught early in cars life but maybe not or trans problems were why car was parked.

Anyway, look over manual to get a feel for disassembly, drop pan and check out the valve mentioned. Look carefully at the shaft and pot metal lever that operates valve and park pawl. Both of these are known failure areas..

Ultramatic Dynamicshttp://www.ultramaticdynamics.com/
has remanufactured and improved both--check out their website for some additional things to look at.

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Not sounding good. I'll post pix of a couple of other things tomorrow that cause it to stick besides the linkage. At any rate, you are going to have to take pan off to see and get to them. Hopefully, it is one of them, otherwise its starting to sound like $$. Do you have service manual? If not, strongy suggest you download the Ultramatic section (sect VII) and review.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?119

Big Kev is right about replacing assy. Latch is either riveted or pressed on in mfg and don't think you'll find separately. One slim possibility is taking assy and see if a welder can fill it in and grind to original without destroying it..Again though, thats only a guess as to possibility since I don't know if it's just ordinary steel or something special-- and the cost for that may be more than another one would be.

It looks intact, but until you get your gearshift in P or N, no way to tell if sw is OK or adjusted properly without removing and actuating manually. If your driveshaft is disconnected where nothing can happen you can jumper or connect the 2 brown wires together just to see if eng will turn over but wouldn't try to do a lot until your shift is squared away.

You can also use a meter or test light at that switch and see where you lose voltage. For example if it is on one brown wire but not the other, the Prk sw is problem but if on both, then solenoid or associated and if on neither then ign sw (also known fail area).

The fact trans is locked now and shaft had to be removed, means it should already be in Park so more needs to be investigated.

Agree with BH about the wiring. If automatic, the original trans setup had a round mechanical sw on the steering column a few inches from firewall on engine side to prevent starting unless in P or N. Other set of contacts is for reverse light. If you have it, would check there and make sure everything OK and also make sure switch has both brown wires connected. Should be on term 3&4 but don't remember orientation. There is a small wire link connecting sw to the lever that goes to trans. Make sure it is there to work switch. If the brown wire is continuous and undamaged from the start terminal (one in center) on ign sw to solenoid, then there is a possibility either switch itself is bad. If a stick, then I believe straight from ign sw to solenoid.

Be VERY careful when working or pulling anything around the ign switch. It is held in by 2 prongs that twist into slots in the bezel. The bezel and slots is pot metal, very delicate, breaks easily, is getting hard to come by, and expensive.

A few possibilities. In the engine compartment where the mechanism is, there is a small coil spring that pulls the latch against the ratchet which may be missing or damaged, there may be a wire from the rats nest bunch in that area out of place pushing against and preventing the latch from engaging fully, or the latch may be damaged or sticking.

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