Don't think it can be posted unless Kev gets permissions but there is an article in this months Skinned Knuckles on the 58 Packard and Hawk including a reprint of May 58 Hot Rod magazine performance test.

Congratulations on the wiring. As to the starter, don't know how many other cars used that particular system but I do remember sitting in a 59 Buick (being used as a loaner in the late 60's) for several minutes trying to figure it out until the mechanic came over and asked if there was a problem. Never dreamed that GM ever used anything but key. As to the cool factor, it is until the car doesn't start on first or second push. After that, pushing pedal again & again gets it flooded but good. Been there-done that. A well broken in 51 I drove during HS did it to me more than once. Have seen more than one car with a well hidden pushbutton installed under the dash apparently for that very contingency.

One other possibility if you still have the original ceramic fuel filter. I went thru a similar problem where the car would do just as yours. The problem turned out the filter had accumulated a varnish deposit from sitting and gas evaporating. The fuel got to filter bowl, and guess air managed to get thru so all looked OK but there was just a trickle of gas getting past the element and not enough to keep carb filled.

I almost envy you--not the snow part--but the fact you can run electric heating when you need it. Here we have a low baseline allowance then a graduated scale use and pay 11, 13, and then jump to 22 cents per kwh. An electric heater would play h--- with the PG&E bill and ruin the whole day when it arrived.

Just out of curiosity, what model brake unit did you use for your conversion and did it fit pretty much in stock location without major surgery. Any info appreciated.

I'd take a good look at the compensator valve because your symptoms describe what happens if it doesn't seal tight immediately when pedal pushed-- a known issue with details on another thread in the forum. There might be a slim possibility the rear hose failed and dumped the fluid where you made the panic stop but you'd have known that immediately with the lack of a next stop. If the reservoir is full and no signs of leakage anywhere else, that valve is about all that's left.

Just curious about how you are trying to activate switch. You mention 40 & 70 lbs. One of the power brake sites mentions drums need 750 lbs minimum to stop, discs 1500 and list specs on their various units all the way to 2500 lbs so 70 might not be quite enough to do anything.

The original switch had one circuit with the common lead and normally closed going to TL and normally open to the brakes. When pressure applied the contacts reversed. The mechanical has 2 separate switches thus the need for pink wire to both ends. Since it is mounted with button pressed it is now "actuated" in normal operation so the logic is reversed with the normally closed to brakes and normally open to TL.

Your logic is correct. This is a common failure with the switch--particularly if it's been around silicone fluid. NOS available but pricy. There's a VW replacement some have had luck with (113945515G) that has different terminals--blade vs the round bullet type--so if you have blades, perhaps someone has already switched.

Another option is to convert to full mechanical operated by brake pedal. The picture shows one method of mounting and the parts I used. Mr. Berger sourced the Standard aftermarket switch at his local parts store.

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Without some real troubleshooting, it's going to be difficult to narrow down to electrical or mechanical. Mechanically, the only thing I can think of without a teardown would be make sure the lockout lever is adjusted properly and fully engaging or disengaging with the lockout knob moving the lever down on OD full travel. Electrically if kickdown sw OK, that leaves governor as next most likely & relay or lockout sw down the list.

Packard did issue a service bulletin after the war on that same series OD where a problem had been found with the connectors that joined the harnesses corroding and causing problems. Don't remember if all years were mentioned but if you have a harness that has the bakelite connectors (5 or 6 of them)about 3-4 ft from transmission then possibly that is causing an intermittent problem. I don't see how it would be load related unless there is a poor connection which heats and fails or jiggles open about the time you get to speed.