I use little #4 flathead screws. I drill clean through the fuzzy and the door at a suitable spot and run the screw down well below the surface of the fuzz into the backing. They are no more visible than the staples.

On the relatively short pieces on sedans I have glued them in with good success. Get some spring type clothespins and place them upside down to push the strips firmly to the door while the adhesive sets.

Here you go, a 1953 WCFB as evidenced by the starter switch and the small base. Missing a few screws and the choke coil, and the fast idle link--but I could probably find those if they are needed. Metering rods present. $100.

I have friends visiting from Germany in May and they could take this thing back with them to simplify shipping.

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The goal is: "one piece of trim per day" to get the 56 400 back together. Sort of keeping to that. This car has the seldom seen aluminum ribbed trim that was never painted with the black stripes. Gonna be darned flashy. To tone it down and give it a sort of gentleman's hot rod look, I'm going with blackwalls and the optional wire wheel covers.

People ask, what is the hardest job you do? Rebuild Ultramatics? Nah. Engines? Its just work. Rust repair? I whistle while I work. The most agonizing job is to install new Steele rubber door pillar weatherstrips and then somehow get the fender back on with a decent door gap. My hands are still shaking.



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The bearing right behind the pulley is a sealed bearing, 6203 2RSJ. You should replace it as the grease has been washed out of it by now. The seal that actually retains the fluid is behind the bearing and is a CR 7440. I usually get them from NAPA. Those pumps are exceptionally well made and if you replace those two items you will likely have no troubles.

Give me an address and I will send you one.

Just think how much you would have to pay for a new car with a beautiful blue and white interior--if you could find such a thing. "This year we are offering upholstery in Olympic fog, Schuychil Coal Dust, or trendy Charcoal".

I haven't a faint idea how to link to old posts, but if you type "skin grafts" into the advanced search, you can find a post that might be helpful. I have used this trick on many rear quarters.

An excellent trick. Thanks very much.

1940 might be different, but all of the later 356 engines had gaskets with upturned edges that spigoted into the block and the manifold. But your manifold should probably still be planed.

Post #13, $200 the pair, so $335 w/ shipping.