For the first time I agree with PFH, get the radiator recored, it's worth it. Avoid the aluminum hot rod radiators like the plague, they actually don't cool as well as the stock radiator will.

Hey thanks for all the suggestions.

I think the strip caulk idea sounds like a winner. When I get the chance I'm going to look at the junkyard car again for any evidence of sealer under the molding.

Now the molding on the car is in perfect shape. So good it looks new. And I don't think they put any sealer under it, but if it is the original molding and never had sealer then I wouldn't put any on there because that would be removing the original build. The folks who did the insert before did only show cars and I'm sure they never tested the top for leaks.

So if the only thing that was replaced was the fabric then why the top was water tight remains a Packard secret which is why I'm interested in a factory build spec.

If the molding is new it may have come from Northfield Forming in OHIO. They do extrusions. Ask for Dick the Packard guy.

The big issue with this car is that it should not be exposed to the weather and so roof leaks is moot. However, there is always the possibility that I will get a call to fix it regardless and that will be a whole new situation.

I remember many years ago seeing Turnquist's mint original 1939 which he never took out because it had the same problems as this car. They're only original once.

I'd hate to see the heater box cut too as it would destroy the stock look. Height seems to be the limiting factor. Was thinking if a deep indent blower could be used like the ARA unit, the motor could be recessed in quite a bit or maybe even a flat motor like the radiator fans use would work.

Vintage air also seems to have a fairly deep recess blower on some of their units if that could be obtained. The one in the drawing looks to be about 5 inches or so. Think the biggest issue would be the custom wheel enclosure to match up with the outlet. Being in the center kinda limits options so things might have to be mounted on a tilt. Using the outlet to feed the evaporator would allow fresh air or recirc just by use of the air vent control though.

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Hi Tom:

Since I was thrown out of this forum, I normally wouldn't bother with you people any more. But from time to time I do peek in. In your case, you seem like a decent nice guy with a SINCERE interest in keeping a Packard on the road.

So - here goes a suggestion that you may not like because of the absurd cost ! But it the ONLY thing that will WORK!

First, BELIVE in this. A properly set up Packard, no matter WHAT the year, does not over-heat. EVER.

Not when freshly over-hauled, not when new. PERIOD.

As one of many examples of the superiority of Packard's philosophy over "over - engineering" - - by the late teens Packards were "sectioned" into busses by a predecessor of the GREYHOUND BUS CO. in California, and regularly BEAT the express train from Los Angeles to San Francisco. That means they were SCREAMING over the then tortourous "Ridge Route" and across the often extremely "desert hot" Central Valley. Over-heating was not authorized ! And be assured it can get as hot in the Calif. Central Valley, as it does out in the desert!

Here's the problem. No matter how many times you "boil out" or try and "rod out" an old radiator, you can never get it to have anywhere NEAR the "heat exchange" capability it had when in service as a new or late-model used radiator. Just cant be done. The problem is "basic laws of chemistry".

I can assure you (from my own experience with my own '34 Super Eight), that when you get your radiator "re-cored", you will find you can subject that Super Eight of yours to any kind of combined extreme temp.driving conditions you can think of, and it WILL NOT OVER-HEAT.

So here's the bad news. I wouldnt be surprised to find that present day cost of a comparable "core" for your radiator will be close to a thousand bucks (by the time the radiator shop is done getting you a core, and setting it up using your existing top and bottom "tanks"). Your motor produces a LOT of heat, so it takes a LOT of radiator to cool it right.

Dont worry about getting your oil cooler operational. It was a attempt by Packard engineers to solve the connnecting rod bearing failure issue. It failed. Cooling the motor oil did NOT solve the problem of "babbit" connecting rod bearings failing from high speed driving - it wasnt solved until 1935 production with the introduction of "insert" type rod-bearings.

With insert-type con rod bearings, Packard was able to run a 1935 Eight wide open, doing 90 mph plus, for 25,000 mi. without significant wear. A bone stock '34 or earlier 8 cyl Packard with stock 'poured babbit' WILL have rod bearing failure in less than 2,000 miles of high speed driving. If you want to see why that didnt matter much given the road conditions when your car's motor was originally designed (in the early 1920's) come out west and see what the roads were REALLY like in those years - "awful" dosnt cover it !

Hopefully, if your '34 Super Eight was PROPERLY re-built, it already either has '35/later connecting rods, (which were already set up for "insert" type con rod bearings,) or someone took those lovely "finned cap" rods of yours and machined them to take an "insert" type bearing. If your car isnt so equipped..please PLEASE dont drive it over 40 mph for any but a short burst, and the MOMENT you dont have at least 40 lbs oil pressure HOT, and/or hear any "thumping" noises, GET THAT MOTOR APART AND FIX IT RIGHT!

In any event, use a water filter on the top of your out-put hoses to protect that expensive new radiator core that is your ONLY solution to over-heating.

No matter how thoroughly you THINK you have cleaned that engine block...it will continue to "sweat" little particles that can stuff up a radiator core and leave you back where you were.

Good luck ! You should be able to find my phone number if you want to go into further detail.

...

TOO much humidity here in Tn. to use the stock heater motor at all.

Mounting the AC blower motor in the heater box is a good idea. I'll check into that possibility. Never thot of that. I have a spare heater box top that i can cut a holes in. I hate to cut it because it's a nice one too. Maybe i'll find one that's ruff before i do any cutting. GOOD idea tho. I'll look at the possibility tomorrow.

Peel and eat RAW one big clove of FRESH UNcooked Garlic. Then sleep for about 12 hours. A hefty shot of Vodka or Whiskey helps too. Put garlic on some buttered toast or something. I eat it just raw and by itself. It'll knock infections out REAL FAST.

Disconnect the phone, put a saw horse on each porch, and give family members a little spending money to go shopping so that everyone will leave u alone while u sleep off the illness. USE THE GARLIC!!!! IT WORKS!! Everytime.

Latest issue has a couple of articles on Packard styling -- both by Thom Taylor. Don't remember seeing that name before but he has a somewhat different & interesting take with the first article--a what if for 2010. Also has another on Packard styling cues through the years with pictures.

John, not to revive the whole thing again, but wasn't it the Studebaker Driver's Club (SDC) that first published the article in "Turning Wheels", and didn't PAC later publish a profuse apology? I don't recall AACA having any involvement at all - perhaps I missed something.

In any case, to me it's ancient history and not worth regurgitating.

Thanks for the nice words. See you in a few days.

Gerd,

Thanks. Still fighting off the tail end of it. A couple more days of Antibiotics left to go.