Re: 1955 Clipper Constellation power steering issue
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I am actually more concerned that the tapered hole in the pitman arm has been distorted/ ruined by forcing the taper of the ball stud through it the wrong way.
Yes, the valve assy should be above the pitman arm with hoses pointing to the rear. Now I am wondering what else was assembled backwards to make this mistake possible.
Posted on: 2012/7/11 21:38
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Re: Made the Plunge
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Congratulations on a very pretty find. And I am so glad that you stayed away from that Mayfair. I think you might have renamed that the Albatross.
Posted on: 2012/7/9 20:55
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Re: Driving comparisons between the Packard Six and 120.
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Here is a little followup: Most of the postwar inliners had their peak torque at 2000 rpm. The 54s has it a 2200 because of the cam timing change.
So, if I want to spend a lot of time at 60, and my tires are 28" in diameter, I am looking for a 2.78 overall final drive. With overdrive, that means the axle would ideally be a 3.85, or lets say 3.9, which is readily available. Packard usually provided a 4.1 with overdrive which puts the optimum speed clustered around 57 or so. (Remember this is all very fuzzy stuff with many variables entering). And the moral of the story is that the Packard engineers were pretty clever in their choice of ratios given the types of driving that predominated then. In cars without overdrive they necessarily chose with an eye to flexibility and hill climbing. The vast majority of cars seldom saw sustained high speeds--certainly not around here as there was no place to do it.
Posted on: 2012/7/7 9:24
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Re: Driving comparisons between the Packard Six and 120.
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Once upon a time a fellow wrote to the engineering department at Studebaker asking which equipment to buy to get the very best gas mileage. The reply in essence was to order the transmission and axle ratio that would keep the engine as close as possible to its peak torque rpm at the intended driving speed.
Peak torque represents the engine's most efficient breathing and combustion scenario, so this makes sense. I took this advice and set up a 62 Lark six and overdrive with of all things a 4.3(?) axle as its torque peak comes rather high. This was a most satisfactory combination that gave great flexibility and performance well beyond what one would expect for a little 170. Oh, and the mileage was outstanding.
Posted on: 2012/7/7 9:07
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Re: Should I replace steel brake/gas lines?
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Since we don't know what sort of service or care your car had in the past please replace all the steel lines. They pit on the inside just as you can easily observe in any old wheel cylinder. During a national meet one year I replaced an oily, shiny clean brake line on a 52 that had burst at the low spot under the engine because of corrosion from the inside. Nuf sed.
More than likely you can buy the lines premade in lengths close enough to what you need so no need to invest in a flaring tool. You can tube the entire car for less than $60.
Posted on: 2012/7/4 20:45
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Re: R9 Overdrive Solenoid Spacer direction
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Geez, I only did this last week and have already forgotten, but am almost certain the two little holes are toward the rear.
Also, are you certain that the shaft engaged with the pawl--as evidenced by the solenoid will not pull straight out? I am wondering if your car is not already stuck in overdrive fulltime, the evidence being that you can not shift it to reverse. There is an interlock built in to prevent that when the pawl is "in".
Posted on: 2012/7/1 21:24
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Re: 4 barrel caburator info needed
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If it is running zu fett bei Leerlauf then you adjust the two screws at the base of the carburetor. The 2.5 turns is a good starting point, but I suggest you adjust them using a vacuum gage or carefully by ear for the best idle.
If the car is running all the time too fat (rich) then there are many other things to check: that the choke is fully opening, the fuel pump pressure (max 0,25 bar), float level, and the metering rod adjustment. Those last two are described in the manuals.
Posted on: 2012/7/1 17:30
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Re: Overdrive Questions
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For the simplest installation, I suggest an R-11 unit from a 49 or 50. The relay and the internal mechanism is simpler and it will fit your 110 just fine.
You need to avoid a unit from a Custom Eight (as if you could even find one) as it has the large input shaft that will not go into your clutch.
Posted on: 2012/7/1 17:21
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Re: Driving comparisons between the Packard Six and 120.
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Oddly enough, the later six with the 3.5" bore became the father of the 1940 356 and then the postwar 288/327/359. I believe that Packard very wisely rationalized their bore spacings and sizes to minimize redundant machine tools. All senior cars after the demise of the 12 were tricked out juniors--ie the juniors made it possible for Packard to offer seniors at all
Posted on: 2012/6/29 10:30
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