Bands are grooved and were never cork. Be sure to look at all the disks in the clutch pack and not just the first one; they were originally concentric rings of cork and paper. Spend a few dollars and put all new seals in--it will never be easier, and its not much money.

I am a big fan of pulling the front clip and then the engine and tranny together. There are a thousand details that can be cared for easily while it is all exposed that are a pain while it is together. Please consider running all new brake tubing while the front is off. It won't take an hour and about 20 bucks for a huge boost in safety.

OK, I knew it couldn't be rocket science:

Secondaries hanging open--return spring was off its little hook. And a goodly leak at the booster which was not audible. Phew.

Measuring the vac at the back of the carb before the check valve, and with the booster plugged off.

56 400 with 55k miles. Just waking it after a too long sleep so all the brakes, fuel system etc etc. have been brought up to snuff. Carb rebuilt, ignition in good shape and a nice new vac advance. Engine runs passable and valve train is quiet.

On the first test drive the brakes were terrible--almost no assist. No wonder--only 6 inches of vacuum that went to ten if you blip the throttle. Also, # 8 had only 60 lbs compression that did not come up if you oiled the cylinder.

OK, so off with its heads for a valve job, and a new timing chain as late valve timing can cause low vacuum. Chain was very slack but it had not jumped time yet.

Buttoned her back up today and went for a depressing test drive. Idles smooth, powerful out on the road, starts nicely--but still only 6 inches vacuum. Timing is set at 10 degrees and there are no vacuum leaks--have tried closing off all connections and spraying around every conceivable gap.

Ideas are earnestly solicited. Can't give it to the customer with not enough vac to assist the brakes.

I agree with you on aesthetics--sidemounts make the hood look shorter, and I will add two other points. As a mechanic I despise them to the core of my being as they make the simplest adjustment or inspection a chore. Also in my limited experience with driving the beasties, the sidemount cars never seem to ride or steer as nicely as those without.

Gemtlemen: with the long base and the upright wings, that is for a 51.

Hi Rick--you are just up the street from me in Parkton MD. Which model are you working on--the cars with the 356 are quite different from the 110 and 120?

Also, what is your reason to take the fork out?

Ross

Was under the impression that some got a Packard script on the face of the continental cover(?).

I vote for a bent shock rod, followed by threaded bushings at the outer ends of the A arms; if they are not centered front to rear they will jam against the a arm at the extremes of travel.

Have never seen a bad TL load arm needle bearing in twenty years but there is a first time for everything.....

Droll comments to the contrary, I had the mountain bike along in the back of the truck to ride the trails in Beartown State Forrest later in the day. Fuuuuun.