BH--I make the contact fingers myself, I made a tool to bend that special shape, and the tinning that is visable in my picture #6 is vital to a good bond. I make the fingers, Sandy Chirco does as well, but I would not advise attempting installation unless you are a V-8 owner with crackerjack soldering abilities. The dependability of the whole system is dependant on the integrity of those eight joints, especially the outer two, the fingers that go to the relay coils. I tend to get a little single-minded about these things, but the (almost unservicable) location that the actuator goes in demands that everything be right, or you don't have a reliable car, and I am against that!
I'll post more pictures as I go on this job.

Now everyone knows why he's called "MR. Pushbutton, Esq." He's da man!

Oops! I couldn't tell from the public post made here by Bob that there was private action going on behind the scenes on this.

Yet, I thank MrPushbutton for posting his findings, fixes, and excellent pix. I wouldn't be intimidated one bit about fixing a problem like this myself, but did not know that the contact fingers were available separately.

I can understand that the tangle of wires and all the lines in the schematic is a lot for some people to take in, and I should, thus, advise that Studbeaker published a Service Bulletin in 1957 that provides some of the more common checks and and fixes. Perhaps someday, we'll get a scan of an original to post here.

Nick -

You asked a reasonable question about finding a good source, in print, for financial information, and you got good advice about the two best books published on Packard.

Though smaller in size and page count, and with comparatively few pictures, Ward's book is more objectively-written and paints the company history against a fuller background of what was going on in the industry/economy/culture. While the Kimes book is considered a bible by many Packard enthusaiasts (including me), Ward's book was made required reading by business schools in some unversities - released in a less costly softcover edition for that very purpose.

Understand that many of us here have participated in other forums, where some newcomers took the position that they shouldn't have to buy a book or manual, but expected us to provide all the answers. I can't speak for others, but I'm not interested in retyping the information, word-for-word, from a manual - especially one that I had to buy to get the answers I needed. Pose a similar question of any automotive library, and you'll likely be told of their research fee; but if you go to that library, you'll generally be permitted to research it yourself for much less.

It was that situation that lead to the founding and has fueled the rapid growth of this site. Many of us (including John Shireman) have generously donated scans of original material from our personal libraries, plus plenty of work in putting addtiional features together, and field questions in these Forums - without expecting one dime in return. My position is that if I donate time and info, maybe others will too, and maybe they will contribute something "new" to me that I can learn from.

If you stick around, I think you'll find that most of us here are working class folk, who are working on our hobbies with a very limited budget. Money is always an object. Yet, what doesn't take money still takes a lot of time.

I hope you can see why your reluctance to purchase a book may have irritated an old sore spot, but not overreact to the valid points that John made.

Quote:

We must be related then! I'm the same way, I'd rather give you a dollar for something that's worth $100, than pay full price!

Nick, Don't leave the forum and you have nothing to apologize for. There is a lot to be learned here. Some of our American friends have a difficult time understanding self deprecating Canadian humour. In my case as far as being a "cheapskate" my maternal ancestors came from Yorkshire England albiet 200 years ago. Nevertheless I have been told that a definition of a Yorkshireman is that he is a Scotsman with his generosity removed. That pretty much sums up my monetary policy also. I'm pretty sure comments were well meaning. Stick around eh!

NOBODY is interested in these??????

John,

There is really no reason to be irritated. I am very grateful to you for taking the time to look things up for me. When I said;

"I am a renowned cheapskate and have my reputation to consider."

and

"Interestingly the book is going for $44 Canadian on amazon.ca, so if ILL fails me I shall just swallow the financial pain and buy it!"

I was trying to make a joke by poking fun at myself, it was not my intention to cause offence or upset, however it seems that I have so I shall bow out of this forum and ask you all to accept my sincere appologies.

Hello all,

For 26 years I have owned a ?55 Packard Clipper Custom sedan with twin ultramatic transmission.I needed to rebuilt it for 20 years ago and then many people told me I should not use it anymore or use some Ford or Chrysler auto trans.But I did rebuild the old one and it still runs perfect.Always so smooth

Bob, what you had happening was a new one for me. I put the motor back on the actuator to see what was wrong. I, like you had shifting in L,H & D, nothing in P,R,N on my test board, just like we talked about on the phone. I poked around with my test light and found that there was power going to the (+12V) bus on the console-keys (through your harness, just like we talked about on the phone) but no action. This had me puzzled for a moment. I checked each finger and when the corresponding button was pushed, I got power @ that finger, like there should be, but no action. I pushed on the finger with my test light probe and got action, it jumped to life. I tried the other two non-operational fingers and they too jumped into action. I removed the finger bridge and inspected it and found two things:
1)The left hand threaded hole that is meant to keep the fastener holding the bridge firmly in place was stripped, you could wiggle the bridge up and down at that end--this isn't supposed to be like this.

2) the fingers for P,R,N were badly distempered and not exerting forcce against the (moving) contact segment. At some time in the past a condition exsisted where those fingers came into contact with ground. When this happens they will glow orange, like a stove element and distemper.

The photos tell the rest of the story.

One thing I should mention is that when a unit is in this kind of condition, it's in everyone's best interest to take it off of the car, send it to either Kanter, Sandy Chirco or me, whomever you like best and get the full work up. I can service one on the car and make it as reliable as one I bench-service, but I can't give 25 years of experience over the phone.
After this full go through the car will never leave you stranded at Dairy Queen in Reverse.

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