The correct cast gray cans will arrive here tomorrow. They shipped the replacement cans the same day the wrong cans were received back by them.

So they were responsive in that aspect.

BigKev -

Meanwhile, what of the black manifold paint that they sent you instead of the cast gray that you ordered?

When I read your original post about Hirsch not covering charges to correct his order, I did get in touch with him about it, so I'm glad your back in contact. I've known Bill for more than 30 years, he's a classy guy and would never expect a customer to pay for his own mistake.

The engine pulls a rock-steady 19 inches of manifold vacuum when idling, and other than overheating at idle even on cool days runs extremely well. I'm beginning to discount the tail pipe restriction for another reason - logic would seem to say that at idle with so little exhaust product to move, it couldn't be the problem; a restricted exhaust might be expected to manifest itself more at higher speeds though I do recognize that the heat exchange from the better air speed over the radiator would counteract that. As to the heat riser, its broken but I'm told it's wide open (counterweight down). This one really has me baffled, block exceptionally clean inside, water distribution tube perfect, timing OK, new 4-row radiator and water pump. I hate to use an external electric fan, that's generally not a good idea, it just masks the problem, kind of like taking a pain killer after you sprain you back so you can back out and split some firewood. Open to any ideas, no matter how far-fetched.

UPDATE:

I talked to one of the guys are Hirsch this morning, and according to him there chart shows that the Packard 48-54 Gray is a very unusual dark gray that almost looks it has some brown in it.

I always thought from the pictures I have seen on the net that it was a light-med gray.

Does this gray get lighter as it ages? Or are the pics I have just washed out from the flash?

I'm totally confused now.

The customer service rep asked me to call tomorrow and speak to Bill Hirsch himself. I guess Bill is a Packard guy and can hopefully clear up any confusion. But they did say if that there was indeed a problem with that can, they would like to get the can back so they can track the quality issue back to the manufacturer from which they contract it.

Joe, could you please post the actual part number for the neoprene rear main seal? That way we can enter it in the Xref. Thanks.

You're correct, that is exhaust pipe from eng to muffler. What gets more curioser is that the specs from 21st series data book are same as 22-23rd mentioned from SC but my 47 2106 (conveniently disassembled) instead of the 2 1/2 spec'd has a 2 1/4 pipe and the 1 3/4 in tailpipe as 47 clipper noted for his.

Maybe they decided large wasn't necessary or because of shortages, used what was available. Since my car wasn't when running nor 47 clippers is now having overheating issues, maybe tailpipe is not the answer on your smaller engine either.

Does the vacuum number indicate any kind of restriction? A friend had overheat issues on his 51 that turned out to be the manifold valve opening but sticking just partially open somehow. Said it took forever to find but he was also burning valves and on the 3rd grind, the mechanic took manifold apart and found true problem.

What region are u located???

Kanter sells, what i believe to be from pics, a double row ROLLER chain kit for the Packard V8. Keep us updated on your timing chain issue.

Looking forward to your inspection of the OEM pump.
1. Does the pump have an open pressure relief valve port???
2. Look CLOSELY at the cylindrical dowl that inserts into the rear main and inside of the dowl to see if there is a bronze bushing.
3. I am amazed that there is no major wear at the shaft-to-pump contact area.
More details to look for later.

Feel free to call me anytime voice to voice if u need to discuss the Olds pump conversion. I'm available mostly 24/7. Packard56V8@wmconnect.com for phone number.

I dropped the oil pan to replace a leaking rear main seal today, and figured on also installing the Olds pump. Took lots of pix to compare the two pumps. By appearances, the Olds pump likely flows more oil. However, there still is nothing wrong with the OEM pump that's been in this car for at least the 135,000 miles I've owned it. I looked it over to determine if it was a PI modified pump from yester-decade or something, but it is just plain old OEM.

Also removed the center main bearing cap to see how the bottom end is holding up since I rebuilt the engine around 75,000 miles ago. The center main is a good wear indicator, since it usually starts to go first. By the way this one looks, its good for at least another 150,000 miles! Its hardly even broken in. I have used Mobil '1', 15-50 since break in, and changed it religiously every 10,000 miles.

A disappointment though is the timing chain, which has way over an inch of slack. The shop manual says change it if over 1/2", so I will add that to the list. I wish someone would design a chain tensioner, so the chain would last as long as the bottom end. I may have to look into that if nobody else has any ideas.

For the leaking rear main seal, I will replace the rope style OEM witn a modern neoprene seal that fits misc GM and Jeep V6s. I installed one in our other 56GH around 15,000 miles ago, and so far so good. I also ran into a 56GH owner at the SB meet that says he installed one in his car and he's happy with it.

Soo many projects, so little time.

Joe H