BIGKEVIN: Here are the some pictures of the carb linkage and spring set up from my 53 Packard.


John F. Shireman

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Had an interesting thing when attempting to back out of garage last week. Haven't run across it before but maybe Mr. PB has.

Anyway, pushed R, some clicks, a buzz or 2 and circuit breaker started cutting out so I went nowhere. Did this for all except park. Figured fingers, so started to take that apart, gave up when I couldn't get to all the screws without the full trans move over procedure (Hint: Mr PB has recommended allen head screws down there and he is so right)

After more deductive reasoning, superb trouble shooting (ha) but more realistically blind luck it led me into auto park relay circuit so bypassed that and all was well. I did check the shift relay and had found both terminal 4 & 6 had voltage when only one should have so in actuality, motor was trying to go both directions at once hence the CB action.

Figured park relay contact welded so took that apart today and something partially conductive had become wedged inside the relay in the narrow space between relay frame and the post that is constant feed from battery, in effect keeping the park finger active all the time at a reduced voltage. Relay is original but doesn't appear to have been molested, so can only assume it was something from mfg as I don't see anything obvious broken off relay. Removed it, tested and all well again.

Dan, sounds like you are having pushbutton troubles, amongst others. What is the system not doing? is it stuck in a particular gear? You did the two-lite test. What side lit and what side didn't (either term. 4=or/bk or term. 6=pink)
OK-re: pushbutton trouble

easy things:
check the breaker for system power and the ign. feed via the yellow wire

check the connector under the dash, make sure the two connector halves are pushed all the way together, make sure all individual brass connectors are pushed all the way into the plastic connector body.

check for power coming out of the pressure switch with the key on and the engine off

If it's not any of these, $20 says it's inside the actuator in the fingers. If so, follow the directions in the auto-lite manual for removal, but don't remove the unit, just get to where you can see/fix the fingers.


hint: it's always the fingers

Nope, not at all......

Loyd, after hearing your experience with the Twin Ultramatic, I've decided to recommend B&M Trick Shift to everyone that asks about fluid for the Ultramatic. I'm glad to hear that you had success with it.

As for the AOD-T/U, it's being put on hold for a month or so, as the wife and I are moving to Wichita. I plan on having it done by this fall, though. I'll keep everyone posted, and I'm not giving up. All I need now is some machining done.

John, I've got a '55 Patrician, acquired a little over two years ago, indirectly, from a museum. Car had, evidently, been sitting in storage for many years but was all there and did run. Most of what was wrong with it was from disuse and, from all that I can tell, being used as a parts car for another that probably required less work. At least they'd exchanged the canibalised parts with ones from whatever car they were finishing and it was all there and would start and run. Replaced the entire brake system, a good bit of the wiring, rebuilt the engine (main and rod bearings shot and one cylinder wall scored), replaced the partially remaining original air conditioning with a modern system from an outfit in Tampa, Florida and replaced every bushing and piece of rubber on it as well as the kingpins/inserts, etc. Surprisingly, with all of the slander and negative publicity that the Twin Ultramatic has been subjected to, my experience was the same as Turbopackman's. Many people had evidently worked on this car since it was last on the road in 1989 but, after adjusting all of the linkage, dropping the pan to see what may have been in the bottom, cleaning the filter and changing the fluid a couple of times, it works surprisingly well. My direct-drive clutch slippage went away within a week after putting B&M Trick Shift in the thing. Had been driving it, regularly, around town for about a year and a half and experienced occasional clunky lock-ups going into direct drive but, after (my first) four hundred mile road trip about two weeks ago in combination city/highway (75 to 80 mph) driving, all problems seem to have cleared up and you can't even tell when it shifts unless you're paying close attention. I can tell little difference in acceleration between, "mush," drive (torque converter) and, "shift," drive (planetary side) and it seems to like being driven in, "mush," better so that's where I usually leave it. When they're sorted out these cars seem to behave better when they're driven. I know one person who has done the Torqueflight conversion on his and he's unhappy with it and, from my (admittedly limited) knowledge of transmissions, were I going to replace the T/U would probably go with a 700 R. As long as the T/U works and/or I can get it fixed, I'll stick with it. It is uniquely Packard and perfectly adequate to its purpose when working properly. Must admit that I am intensely interested in Turbopackman's T/U overdrive research, however, and looking forward to seeing what he comes up with.

Eric,

Is this what you are still looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Packard-Grille-Mid-50s-No-Reserve_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ015QQitemZ250111671722QQrdZ1

After down-loading the Auto-light manual I tried the two-light test. One stayed lite for all but the "D" button. the other just would not light at all.
Then I noticed a large pool of anti-freeze and a large pool of type F trany fluid under the car.
Perhaps I broke the trany lines when I was fighting the third radiator hose?
PLEASE anyone help

Well looking at this I realize I've had my Packard home about a month. Its still on the trailer but I did get it to run and go in gear. I rebuilt the carb and add new wires and a coil. The oil and trans fluid looked fresh and it had some new tune up parts on it. When it fired up I was pretty happy. Even it wife is digging it now but she keep asking went it can go get exhaust on it (there is none now). For me this is the best part of a new project. Now I need to clean out the shop so I can get inside. It needs brake work and little stuff but I hoping to have it road ready by the end of this summer. The info here is a big help. I took the numbers off the car and found out is a super panama. I think it must have the oddest colors. Teal and white paint with blue interior.

Howard, thanks for sending that write up. It is now posted as an article.