If I remember right, I found one at O'Reilly's when I was thinking of putting my T85 in the Pat. I still have it, but I'll be danged if I remember what the part # is. I'll do some looking through my receipts and see if I can find the # and post it in the interchange if in fact it is an actual interchange. It fit the bearing retainer and throwout fork perfectly, but since I didn't have an original to compare it to, I can't guarantee a perfect fit.

I am new to this NG, but can tell there is a wealth of tech info on this site for our beloved 55-56 Packard V8 powered cars. I just hope you folks don't hold it against me that my V8 came stock in a 1956 Stude GOlden Hawk.

Does anyone have a source for a 1955-56 throwout bearing? I need to replace the clutch disc & presure plate soon; the last time I did it (around 75,000 miles & ten years ago) there was not a source for the throw out bearing to be found anywhere.
Thanks,

Joe H

My guess is that the converter to front pump seal is dried up and it leaking. The T/U that was in the '55 Hudson that my 320 came out of had that problem. It would use a quart every 10 miles, it leaked so bad. When I put said 320 in my Pat, the first thing I did was buy and install a new converter seal. They're easily available, and cheap insurance.

Oh yeah! It ended up working out rather well, actually. I'm looking forward to moving, as there's so much more to do down there than in Salina, Ks! Plus, the pay and benefits more than outweigh the trouble of packing up and moving.

Thanks for coming back with an update.

I am relieved to hear that your coolant and ATF are merely co-mingling on the floor and not in the tranny cooler.

Be advised that I met up with MrPushbutton at the Perrysburg meet last weekend, and after talking with him at great length, I can say that anyone who lacks the confidence/patience to attempt to service the push-button trans control system need look no further than MrPushbutton. Know that he speaks fluent "pushbutton-ese" - a series of clicks representing the proper movement of the actuator in response to the specific button pushed.

The steady stream of fluid coming from one of the bolts that secure the inspection cover for the converter could mean a failed front pump seal, which is what I expreience on the trip home with my first Patrician. Fluid comes out almost as fast as you can pour it in. It required removal of the trans to replace that seal. In my case (with evidence of previous substandard repairs made by the previous owner), the trans probably should have been overhauled, but the only pump seal was replaced, and I never had another problem with massive fluid loss - though with only ocassional use - since.

I have one of the Melling HV Olds pumps and adapter kits, but because I have not yet installed it, let's hear from others who have.

It is time for an up-date. First I can not thank you guys enough. We've got some brilliant bas***ds here. Hate to think how many of these old cars would be scrapped if we could not communicate our hair-brained ideas.
After much pain and contortions, I got her up on jack stands in my garage.
Symptoms:
Push buttons have no effect.
Coolant just streams out.
A steady drain of Trany fliud.

I have removed the radiator and am having a new one built. This one will be aluminum, incorporate a seven vane transmission cooler and flow about 3200 CFM. Putting in a 16 inch electric fan thermostatically controlled and has a shroud. That should stop leak as well as do a better job of cooling and prolong life of both engine and Ultramatic!

Next I have to remove the Actuator and ship it off to Mr. Pushbutton. I have to admit this sounds over my head, but a mans gotta do?.

Now for the pencil lead sized flow of trany fluid. This comes down from a screw head in a small plate on the bottom of the converter cover. I am told this might be a blown front gasket. This will be a joyous surprise I have yet to enjoy!

I have a friend that will tow the car up to his building ( approx 30 miles). There we will put her on the lift to jack the trany to the side for the ?Actuator-ectomy?!

While the car is in the air, I'll try to clean as much as possible under there. I did find that the trany pan was put on with what looks like black jelly that is oosing down the sides. So I'll drain and drop that and at the very least put on a new gasket. I'll have to run new lines to the radiator but that is not a scary as putting a jack between the frame and the drive train.

I will have to remove the fan blades and I am going to put on new belts. From the look of the hatchet job that was done on the wiring, I guess that I should plan on re-wiring what I can get to.

Might as well take the chance to drain and drop the oil pan to check on the oil pump. I did score a dual action fuel pump from the Hudson version of this engine.

Hey guys, if I use this pump and attach the vacuum lines to it, what do I have to do in respect to the Oil pump? Remember I am a non-mechanic so be gentle! Optimum would be to put in the pump conversion to Olds pump and full flow (see Panther Project). Any suggestions on a possible Dry Sump?
Any ideas on fund raising to pay for some of this crap?

Well, One step at a time!

So the job in Wichita came through?

Good deal and congrats.

Thanks Kev, already got 'er on "watch".


A little update on the STS project: The AOD-TU project is on indefinite hold, since I'm moving to Wichita at the end of this month.

On another note, since the AOD-TU is on hold, I have another idea that's going to be realized sooner, and will be able to handle the torque output of the 374 that Craig an I configured..... I have recently acquired a T56 that is going to go in the Pat. A manual trans with a double overdrive, plus the ability to handle 450+ lb-ft of torque will be more in line with my idea of a "Sports Touring Sedan", anyway.


As for the AOD-TU, I'm not stopping on it, just putting it on hold at least until next spring.

Here's my new junkyard jewel, that will be turned into a "Packup", by using a Studebaker p/u body on the original '56 Packard frame, with a mild 374 and the AOD-TU. Whatcha all think of that?

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Eric,

Just thought I would pass this along if you were still looking for a good one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PACKARD-1956-COMPLETE-GRILL-senior-series_W0QQitemZ110127774243QQihZ001QQcategoryZ140704QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well will the sub-panel installed in the garage and all the feeds ran for the bench outlets, overhead lights, and the dedicated compressor feed.

With the compressor now able to run without snapping the breaker, I was able to get back in the garage this past weekend to get some work done on the car.

I started by pulling out my Impact Wrench for the first time, and I was finally able to bust loose the bolts holding the front bumper assembly to the frame. With the bumper out of the was it makes it so easy for me to roll my shop chair right up the front of the engine. No more sore back for me.

I then pulled the fan and water pump pully back off so I could clean up and paint the waterpump, timing cover, and crank pulley.

Next tool in the line-up was a die-grinder with a wire bursh. I used it to clean up all the rust and gunk off of the crank pulley. I was happy to see that I can finally read the timing marks. So I cranked the pulley around to TDC, and upon that I discover that my plugs wire were installed (by me) off by one position counter clockwise. All I had to do was move them all one space to the left, and now I have them back where then are supposed to be.

I think the next thing on my list is to pull the distro, for cleaning, and rebuilding where required.

Also I need to fab up some new oil, vacuum and fuel hard lines. The old one are rusty, brittle, and some of them are run incorrectly. For example the oil line to the filter were installed incorrectly. The filter is supposed to be a by-pass arrangement. But the way it is currently plumbed, it is not. (See picture). The lines are supposed to T' at the pressure port, with one side of the T' going to directly back into the inlet on the block above the pressure port, and the other side of the T' feeding the filter, and then back into the pan. As you can see the lines run directly to the filter, and then right back to the oil inlet on the block. Not sure what kind of pressure or flow drop the current setup caused to the upper part of the engine. Any thoughts?

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