What a great web site for all of us who did no know about it, thanks Owen for posting.
I was going to suggest to Updraft that he use modern 14mm spark plugs with 7/8" adapters as I have in my Packards but if the correct ones are available then thats the way to go.
Also using thread adapters could affect the heat transfer from the plug and therefore the heat range.

I used the strapping from Restoration Supply Co for the Gabriel Snubbers on my 1922 Packard and it is an exact copy of the original and works well however as you know it needs to have something between each layer to reduce the friction and allow it to recoil. Shim brass was used originally and I used shim stainless steel. An alternative that may not need anything between the layers is the webbing that is used for safety belts. It should recoil without any other layer. I understand you can buy it in different widths. This idea came from Bernie who posts on the AACA site, perhaps if he reads this he will provide more details.

Try Restoration Supply Co for the webbinghttp://www.restorationstuff.com/

Those footrests are different to the ones I found for my 633, maybe I have the wrong ones. What model is your 1929?
Getting back to you original question , some simple repairs and they will make good patterns for brass castings, the slight shrinkage will not matter and the new ones will not break like the old pot metal ones.

I looked for years for the foot rest brackets for my 1929 633 and finally came across a set that had been reproduced from originals by sand casting in brass.
There are 2 casting processes to consider, sand casting and lost wax investment casting. Mine are sand cast ones and are fine, the sides have an inset area that is not easily accessible to polishing so that face is not as smooth as the faces that are polished. The lost wax process will yield a near perfect reproduction all over however it is a much more expensive process.
My view is sand cast brass is appropriate for these brackets. If money is no object, go for lost wax stainless steel but the end result will only be better on the closest examination. The other benefit of SS is that it does not need to be plated, just polished.
I have not used the company you mentioned but they would not last long if their work was not up to scratch.

Bernie,
Regarding the minor difference in engine and chassis number on you 126, my 126 has a similar difference as did a few other early series cars I came across. I was also concerned about this when I started on my car and was told by the "experts" at the time that it was normal for there to be a minor difference in the numbers. I doubt that it indicates an engine change with you car.
I have never found any information about the actual build dates. Mine has low numbers so I have assumed it was built in 1922 but it may have been sold in Australia in 1923. It seems we will never know that information.
David.

Hank,
I tried attaching a photo from the sales brochure, Don't know if it will work.
You asked whether it is a Holbrook body - looks like the standard Packard body to me.

Attach file:

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Hank
That Packard has a lot going for it as a restoration project. It will cost more to restore than its worth even if you do most of the work but restoration is therapy if you enjoy it and if you like car go for it. I have a 1923 Sport Tourer Single Six so I guess I am biased, mine has been a great old car and I enjoyed restoring it and it drives very well.
The coupe looks to be very complete and correct, the wheels look to be the correct 24" wood spoke with correct hubcaps. It did not come with with bumpers originally and those fitted spoil it in my opinion. It is missing the oil filler funnel assembly that should be on LHS of the engine. The First Series cars did not have a stop light so the tail light is not correct. It is missing the "bung" that covers the hole where crank handle goes. That's about all I can see at a quick look, there will be other issues but its in far better condition than mine was when I started on it.
I can send you a copy of sales photo of the car if you would like.
David

Interesting, the vacuum tank is on the opposite side to the exhaust manifold so it runs cooler. The article I attached to my last post refers to venting of the float chamber. When I spoke to the twin six owner and he told me that he had fitted a vent to his float chamber I commented that the float chamber on his car is not sealed, there is clearance around the float shaft where it penetrates the cover and if the cap, if fitted, has small holes however his response was that on his Packard this was not enough to vent the float chamber and it needed a much larger pipe. The "bump" on your Dodge is very small but obviously works.
I have friends with Packards like ours who claim they never vapor lock, like your Dodge. I can't explain that, I have three that all vapor lock.
I thinks it time I got off my soapbox and let others comment!!

29tons, Is your friend referring to the vacuum tank when he says " will never get it to work right" ? If so I disagree strongly, they work fine and if you carry out the tests suggested by Tim you will soon know if there is a vacuum problem. I have three cars with vacuum tanks and I have replaced the pot metal tops with aluminum reproductions which eliminates dodgy threads, hair line cracks and the brass insert seats coming loose in the pot metal.
Recoating the manifold is not going to stop it cooking the vacuum tank.
In the Automobile Quarterly Packard book by Kimes it states in relation to the Eighth Series cars "To accommodate the more volatile fuels then in use , the vacuum tank gave way to a Stewart Warner fuel pump..." We know that the fuels today are even more volatile which is why our cars are so prone to vapor lock. I too like to keep my cars exactly as they were built but without the fuel of the day we are stuck with having to make a few changes to accommodate modern fuel or only drive them in cold weather.
The following provides interesting information about how modern fuels have changed. If the link does not work, Google " Modern Petrol in Vintage Engines"
http://www.bp.com/liveassets/bp_internet/australia/corporate_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads_pdfs/f/Fuel_news_modern_petro_vintage_engines.pdf