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Board index » All Posts (tjflemmer)




Re: Help with Canister Type Oil Filter
#41
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Tom
The WIX 51080 is what I bought. It's too small. I assume the diameter is not that important but it's about 3/4 inch shorter than it needs to be so the spring can't hold it down. My oil filter must be different than standard. How would I plug and bypass the oil filter system?

Posted on: 2012/6/2 16:59
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Re: Question on old fuel problem
#42
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Tom
Thanks again for you advice. I did call Jeff Adkins. He gave me a part 3 for a paper fuel filter as you mentioned. But now that I have it, I don't understand how it possibly can work in my glass bulb fixture. Am I missing some sort of adapter? Or maybe this is for a Carter filter and I have and AC.

Posted on: 2012/6/2 16:22
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Re: Help with Canister Type Oil Filter
#43
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Tom
I think you might be right. After cleaning the gunk out, I opened it back up and it appears oil is running through it. The new replacement canister I purchased at NAPA is not the correct one thought. It's too small. Mine is about 4 1/2 inches in diameter and 4 7/8 to 5" tall. Any idea what that might be. Or is it possible to just clean out the canister or is it best to replace them?

Posted on: 2012/6/2 14:57
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Help with Canister Type Oil Filter
#44
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Tom
In my continued quest to bring my 1946 Clipper Deluxe back to life I have now dug into the Oil Filter. I originallly changed the oil without messing with the bypass type filter and oil on the dip stick is clean.

When I pulled out the metal canister type oil filter, it was a mess. The oil in it was dark dark black and in the bottom of the housing there was about 3/4 inch of sludge. I have dug out the sludge with a screwdriver. Located a replacement cartridge.

Based on how bad this was, I am wondering if oil was going through it at all? Is there a way to check to see if the oil pump is sending oil up through the filter easily?

I think the oil goes back into the oil pan through the rod that sits in the center of the filter. I am guessing it could be completely clogged, is there a proper way to clean this stuff? Can you use gasoline?

Posted on: 2012/6/2 12:01
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Re: Question on old fuel problem
#45
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Tom
I thought I would provide a quick update. Thanks for all the information, very helpful.

I decided against attempting to get the fuel tank plug out. It is brass. I carefully tried to get it to budge, no luck. Went to see if I could find a square socket, I couldn't find one, best thing they have is a 10 point socket, that is not good enough. I then decided that the next approach would be to siphon the gas into a can by removing the fuel line on the other side of my electric fuel pump and turning on the pump. I got out about a 1/2 quart of gas in 20 minutes and gave up on that plan.

Finally when back to plan B. Drove the car to the gas station, filled it up with high octane fuel and added a can of gas treatment. Car stopped once more and I cleaned out the glass bowl filter again. Since then it has been running smooth. I am going to take my chances and leave tank removal to a professional at some point.

Posted on: 2012/5/30 9:00
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Re: Engine Temperature Guage Inoperative - Where to Start?
#46
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Tom
Thanks. You are correct that my 1946 packard temperature gauge is mechanical. I do not see any obvious bends or kinks in the cable. The gauge is stuck on hot even when key is turned off. I guess my next step is to find the instructions for repairing you mentioned.

Posted on: 2012/5/29 14:14
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Question on old fuel problem
#47
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Tom
I have been making great progress on bringing my 1946 Deluxe Clipper back to life. Identified an overheating problem being a combination of leak in heater hose and a bad thermostat. I took the car out for a spin for about 15 miles and everything ran great, no overheating.

Got too confident and went for another ride and the car stopped 2 miles from my house. I immediately assumed the worse but then calmed down and started to troubleshoot the issue. Identified the problem was a clogged fuel filter. It has one of those fuel filters with the glass bowl underneath and the color of the gas was a deep rust color. I cleaned it out, kicked on the electric fuel pump and was able to drive it back home.

I then decided I should drain the fuel tank since it probably has a bunch of sediment in it and the gas that has been sitting in there 1/4 tank is very old.

The drain plug on the gas tank is not a normal bolt but a square nut, that I can get a 5/16 open end wrench on. I sprayed it with WD40 and couldn't get it to budge. I took a crescent out that had more leverage, but there is too much play and I was worried about damaging the plug. I thought I might go today to see if they make a socket that fits that sort of plug.

Here is my dilemma: Do I continue to try to get this drain plug out and get that old gas out of the tank, or do I just fill up the tank the rest of the way to dilute the bad gas and add some good fuel additive like BG44?

Thoughts?

Posted on: 2012/5/29 9:30
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Re: Engine Temperature Guage Inoperative - Where to Start?
#48
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Tom
I have the opposite problem. My temperature gauge is always stuck on hot. The car did overheat badly once, could that damage the sensor. If not, does it mean I have a short?

Posted on: 2012/5/23 16:24
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Re: Restoring 1946 Deluxe Clipper
#49
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Tom
My car is a 1612, thanks for the clarification. Have you found a good source for either the multi-stripped or houndstooth broadcloth that is a good reproduction?

Posted on: 2012/5/23 6:16
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Re: Restoring 1946 Deluxe Clipper
#50
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Tom
I appreciate your perspective su8overdrive. I always thought the rubber matting and hogs hair seemed a bit lower class than the rest of the interior of the car.

Maybe I will consider an upgrade to a Wilton wall to wall carpet that matches the seat cushion and door panel broadcloth, that would definitly look nicer.

I'm taking my time figuring this out. Why hurry.

Posted on: 2012/5/22 6:33
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