While I've had the parts to replace the rear main seal on my '51 200 Deluxe for several years, I haven't work up the desire to jack up the car and crawl underneath the beast in order to replace the seal until now.

The question I would like to pose to those more knowledgeable than I on the subject is will I be able to remove the pan from the engine as it sits in the car? If not, what will I need to do in order to remove the pan to get to the rear seal?

Thanks in advance for any and all inputs.

I used TCP Global products from primer to base to clear coat and I'm 100% satisfied with their Restoration products. Living close by, I visited and toured their plant several times and they have a class operation. While they cannot say who makes their paint, a tour shows that they have hundreds of 55 gallons drums of PPG paint that they off load into their brand.

Dave,

Thanks for all of the photos. I think the last one answers all of my questions. I think I now understand how the whole thing goes together. Can't try it out now as we are getting ready for the two month trip in the RV to the northwest.

I'll let you know after I get back and can give it a go, which will probably be the end of September. I think we have finally settled on the material and I think we have picked someone to do the upholstery.

Again Thanks - Marty

I've been busy trying to get everything lined up so I can get the car's interior done. I just finished rebuilding the wood frames for the front seats (right & left sides). I installed the metal seat bottom along with the metal frame for the driver's seat back cushion to determine where it is going to sit.

I'm assuming that the metal clam shell, which goes behind the front seats, should be installed first. Having not taken the car apart I'm at a loss as to how it is installed and have several questions:

1. Looking at the bottom section of the clam shell, there are tabs (see photo "Tabs") that look like they should go into wood sill
2. There are two counter sunk holes on both sides (see "Screw Holes on Side") does this screw into something
3. I have two curved wood pieces (see "Wood Pieces") there were covered with material and I can't figure where they go. Anyone know where they go
4. How close is the clam shell placed in relation to the back of the metal seat frame I'm guessing the bottom metal edge (see "Bottom") of the clam shell touches the seat bottom

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Nice looking. I take my hat off to you. When I bought my 1932 901 (I took over a restoration from the previous owner) they had already be remade. It is a task that I would not have undertaken because of the need to have the body off (No way for me to do here at my location). I'm guessing that there are other wood replacement parts that you will need to fabricate. While it is not extremely important for the stringers make sure that you do not use oak because the tannic acid in it will lead to corrosion of steel. Stick to other hardwoods such as ash and maple.

Good whittling and keep us updated.

I used EziBend tubing (a copper nickle material) when I replaced the fuel line on my '32. It was easy to work with, doesn't work harden nor does it rust. Not cheap, but I would use it again instead of doing it in steel (preferred over copper because of safety reasons).

The hinges on my '32's sun visors were beyond saving and I replace them with a similar looking one. I'm not at home right now and won't be for another 8 or so days.

As best as I remember I made new ones from a piano hinge I bought that came in either 3 or 6 foot lengths with either a .25 or .18 diameter pin, a leaf width of 7/8", and a knuckle length of 5/8". I don't recall the thickness of the steel, but it was not very thick maybe 0.06" to 0.08". If the leaf width is to great, I would think it would be an easy job to have it sheared to a narrower width.

Maybe someone out there could post a closeup of the hinge.

If this sounds like something that would work, let me know and I'll see if I can can figure out where I got it. They had a great selection of hinges.

Oz don't let your metric versus English/American measurement system mishap keep you down very long. Even those NASA Rocket Scientist brainica (sp) types have found it bewildering. Yours didn't cost you much of anything but some time. NASA's cost them gobs of millions when they tried to land a rover on Mars.

I didn't see the lightening & thunder, but other than that watched it twice.

One word evaluation is "Cute".

P.S. Beats Hail & Snow

The one's on E Bay are nice & shinny, but all I can say is "Gulp".