My 2 cents:

If safety is related buy the best you can afford.

Injury or death is not worth a few dollars saved.

Is the $15.00 dollar 2 ton jack below really a good deal while you have your 4500 lb. Packard up on the stands for some work?

Both of these are currently available on the WEB.

Regards,

Dave

Attach file:

---

  (31.82 KB)


  (27.06 KB)

The shape of the trunk that faces the body is similar to what is shown below, from a '33 1004 Club Sedan.

Attach file:

---

  (19.84 KB)

Thanks BigKev,

It's added to the directory. If people have a current problem with this vendor they can rate it in the directory.

Regards,

Dave

Tom,

I've had a few tanks done at:

They did good work.

http://www.gastankrenu.com/

http://www.gastankrenu.com/how.htm

Regards,

Dave


Their Guarantee, from their site:

GUARANTEED RESULTS

Our unique, chemical bonding repair process gives your fuel tank a tough, "double layer" of protection.

Gas Tank Renu - USA coats both the inside and outside of your tank, sealing it from rust and corrosion.

We are so sure of our patented process, that we offer a limited LIFETIME NATIONWIDE WARRANTY on every passenger car or light truck tank repaired and two years on all other tanks.

Our guarantee is honored at any Gas Tank Renu - USA Dealership.

Gas Tank Renu - USA's repair process is completely compatible with gasoline, water (non-drinking), diesel,
methanol and ethanol.

Thanks Tbirdman,

Maybe when he has time BigKev can add menu for part source links.

Unless it's already here some place and I haven't found it yet.

Regards,

Dave

I saw their '32 coil with integral ignition key listed on Ebay last year for around 200 U.S.D.

The company is located in Massachusetts, I believe still in the original factory where they used to make the Atwater Kent Radios.

I agree, nice to see them making replacements for the O-D regulator.

Their unit is close to, but not an exact physical match of the original O-D regulator. The original O-D regulators can be rebuilt, if you can find them. I've rewound the relay and heater windings on one to get it working again.

Packard parts source - from a historic Radio Mfg. Co.

Ignition Coils:

http://atwaterkentmfg.com/Ignition%20Coils.htm#1

Voltage Regulator:

http://atwaterkentmfg.com/voltage_regulators.htm

Fuel Tank Sending Units:

http://atwaterkentmfg.com/Fuel%20Senders.htm#10

Measured the current draw for two Sparton Model L-A Trumpet Horns of a '32.

Continuous current draw was 7A from the battery, measured using a digital meter. Battery charged to 6.6V, with 800 cold cranking amps capacity.

Correction to my previous post of 4 ohms resistance - The resistance would be 0.94 ohms for the pair.

One thing to remember here, Ohms law V=IR

V=voltage
I=current
R=Resistance

If the voltage from the supply is constant at 6V, and a different current is measured then there is a resistance difference between the good and bad horn.

Correct that and you'll have a good horn.

Tbirdman,

If you have or can borrow a digital voltmeter you may want to check the resistance of the coils. Set the meter to a low resistance scale and measure the resistance of the coils. A good coil is going to measure around 4 ohms.

The difference in current draw could be due to a shorted winding in the one of the coils, or it could be because the points are not functioning properly.

If you apply current to the good horn the center core is going to pull down and open the points up. When the points open the core will spring back, closing the points. This rapid movement of the center core and diaphragm makes the sound.

The rapid turn on / turn off of a good horn will show a different current draw on your power supply compared to a bad horn where the center core doesn't move, and the coil is energized 100% of the time.

Regards,

Dave