http://youracauthority.com/acterms/Pilot_Operated_Absolute_POA_Valve.shtml


"The POA valve was used on some General Motors and Ford air conditioning systems through the 1970�s. On these A/C systems, the compressor would run constantly whenever the A/C system was on. Under certain operating conditions, less compressor suction was required on the evaporator. The POA valve would then close off the flow of refrigerant, effectively reducing the amount of compressor suction."



http://youracauthority.com/acterms/Suction_Throttling_Valve_STV_Valve.shtml

"Typically used on older A/C system designs, the STV valve has been replaced because of fixed orifice tubes and cycling compressors."


So, take out cycling compressor, add STV of POA valve it would seem. I feel i'm on the right track, especially after being only a couple hours into research.

Quote:


I think you've hit the nail on the head with temp control and constant on. You can't have everything and sacrifice nothing, and if i don't move to 12v i can't have clutch on and off. So that follows that i need to regulate pressure and temps in an always on compressor situation. Which means adding a hot gas bypass or suction throttling valve of some sort and then something that activates it. That's why i'll be glad for the vintage air book, i have to see how that valve (Which seem plentiful if going STV or POA) gets turned on or off (other than a toggle switch i have to do every 5 minutes :) )

Also, if it has HGB i think that even if it was in a 12 volt system, it was the always on type of system. There's a rebuild kit for the valve for $30, the compressor bearings around for $10. It'd take a lot to clean that one on ebay up and use it, but it'd be doable and it seems like a popular compressor as far as pre A6 ones go.

Quote:


I did consider both of those options...The battery one i've discarded until i do more testing because i don't want to use the sanden compressor that will work with 7.5v (it looks too new and at that point moving to 12v would be cheaper and make more sense)


The beetle angle i'm looking into and will see what i can find. Someone referenced it but no parts shown up as of yet.


I still think we've drug up a lot of good information in here, more than most other forums have on 6v ac theory in one thread.

Quote:

Oh if I knew how/someone could do that, i think 6v ac kits would be common. Retrofitted A6 compressors likely, and sold for like $500 a kit that would perform ok but not as good as newer sanden retrofit kits. If you have an idea how to do that, i'm ALL ears!



http://www.classicautoair.com/GM_OEM_Parts_Valves.html


This page shows different valves that came after hot gas bypass...wondering if using one of those (POA or STV) would prevent evaporator from freezing up...but wouldn't that back up pressure in the system if you throttled it without a bypass? I ordered a cheap service manual on 50's gm ac systems that will give me a hint at how each part interacted with the rest. I know in AC there is more than one way to skin a cat, and no need to chase redundant parts.

Those are excellent options. I'd only need to remove the belt if driving in cold weather, but i usually only drive the packard when it's warm anyways.

What we were concerned about was that if a)the compressor wasn't cycling or b) there wasn't a hot gas bypass valve instead, then wouldn't we run into some kind of evaporator freezing up issue?

I mean if it works an i don't have to rebuild the compressor every year, i'd be game. It's a cheap and dirty option and i like that. If i could get, say, 5-10 thousand miles between major AC maintenance, i'd be on board asap. The best option for now is probably what you're saying with a pulley system, and finding a hot gas bypass valve to work with it. No electric issues at all at that point.

ROFL! Now that's almost as good as the mounting the house AC in the back of the pickup truck :)



http://jlbco.hypermart.net/59ac.htm



thinking that plumbed in with the compressor + making compressor always on would be rudimentary 50's AC tech, no? Pricey yes.



Edit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360198599088&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=a2b738281240a02663b099d0fff16b1b&rvr_id=&ua=M*S%3F&itemid=360198599088#ht_500wt_956


Could that be a 6v solenoid compressor?!

Edit Edit: Looks like part of the line out next to the hot gas valve. Assuming a hot gas valve works ok, i don't see why that wouldn't be a viable option.

Did come across that but he misses a few points:

-AC was invented before 12v was standard in cars and worked great (came across a guy with a mopar always on compressor that he said was one of the best AC systems he ever played with)

-There were 6v compressor clutches. Availability is the only issue, and finding the applications.

-Not all 6 volt systems are "poor old won't start while compressor is pumping break down"...mine is excellent. Car starts, runs, idles great, lights bright, voltage and amps there for the taking. More than enough for a good fan and plenty of accessories.

-I don't expect like new AC performance...something vintage looking and vintage performing, like my half way working windshield defroster and crappy reception AM radio. Cooler air is great, but even with 12v I still wouldn't put an electric fan on the condenser, etc.

-Honestly, it'd be as easy to convert this car to a chevy motor and be done with it. 12 volts, lots of power, tranny with sane ratios and take off. Cheap available parts for any option you desire. But i like the charm (like taking belts off or other issues you wouldn't do today for maintenance) and the look of vintage. I know they say you have to find your own line for the "when have you modified too much" issue, and adding an AC compressor for me isn't too much, 12v is. The most i think i'd do is add the second alternator and 12v circuit when it comes to wiring. The car is just working too well the way it is to replace bulbs, motors, etc.

The most important issue here is....it's a challenge! It doesn't cost much to play around, and if we come up with a solution, how many 6V car hobbyists will be excited!

Also, we forget, it was done once reliably before 12v came out and people enjoyed cool air. All we have to do is retrace out steps.

LOL Turbopackman i get your point, but for the same race that built the internet and got to the moon...we find 6V AC impossible. I have too much $$$ wrapped up in 6V on this car to convert UNLESS the cost to make a somewhat reliable 6v system exceeds the cost to convert to 12 AND replace the 6V parts i have (namely that pertonix kit at $100). Plus, i like to be different. Even if i don't build the system, just want to know it's out there if i decide to.

I think the trunk mounted electric motor driven option is out, i think i'd need like 24 volts or more. After all that work and price, might as well go 12 V.

According to this link from hemmings:

http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2006/10/01/hmn_feature32.html

The GM A6 was available in a 6V clutch version. I'll read up on that as well. From what i've read just lightly, you need about 1700-2000 rpm for this kind of compressor to work. We'll see what we can find in 6V motors along those lines.

I have a boat for sale on ebay/craigslist right now and a set of wheels for my father in law. 3 scammers so far (like 3 days) saying they'll send a check for the whole amount plus shipping and i pay the shipper, etc.

I said cool and can't wait and i'll take the ad down when the check gets here, make it out to me and here's my address.


I expect to get a nice collection of fake bank checks shortly that i can frame and tell stories about.

There WAS that one time that a scammer offered to buy a laptop off our company for $1500 (300 over asking price) with a stolen credit card. We ran it and it cleared and shipped a 15 year old broken laptop to africa and they paid $300 in customs fees to pick it up and accept it.

The merchant processor said later it was stolen and we said "well, we're out a laptop! that's what we pay you for" Our processor and the credit card company ate it, we got the 1500 minus processing fees and the 50 bucks we mailed to the poor lady who's card got stolen (to cover her liability) and minus shipping. All in all a nice days work and profit AND the scammers got screwed out of $300, and the little old lady got her 50 to break even.

Edit: They did it all through TTY for the deaf relay services. We used to get like 1 call a week trying that scam with us. After that, 5 years later, we haven't received another call.