All very good information. I've been mulling this over in my head while out and about. If i have to put a compressor under the hood, i'd prefer a somewhat common one and a rotary as opposed to piston type and one that doesn't look too new (hence spending the bucks on an alternator that looks like a generator, to preserve the general time period "look". With that in mind, i think the compressor of choice is probably the GM A6 that was used in the 60's. Still lots of parts around, about 175 rebuilt without core, and looks kind of old, especially with receiver/dryer strapped to the side and painted factory black.

With that in mind, i'm going to yank mine of the shelf and take it apart to study it to see how the air gap adjustment works. I'm going to pickup a 2000lb engine stand and get the 327 mounted and hold it up to see what kind of mounts i could work with before getting it in the car. Then i'll make a decision.

At the same time, i have a bigger around but way shorter GM one that i will research doing direct drive with. If i cold gut an old coke cooler or something else period correct looking, sand blast and paint it up all nice, and put it all in there, THAT'D be awesome. Maybe a deep cycle battery in there with it and some sound insulation, with nice big gauge wire running to it from the healthy charging system up front.

So next steps i guess are play with the compressor i have and a 6V power source with ok amps and a power drill to see what kind of lock up i can get for option A and research decent 6v motors and compressor RPMS for option B and leave the always on option for last if need be.

Hey all, a quick note before dropping out the door. Getting ready to put the 327 in the 50 packard and thought about ac. Now, i know they had it as early in as the 30's, so that means it works with 6V and i know ford had some systems that were clutchless (always on) for 6v cars. I have a 6v positive ground alternator (and want to get one that looks like a generator from summit - like 400 bucks) so i do have some extra amps to throw around vs a stock 6v car and here are my thoughts (besides converting to 12v, i like my 6v pertronix ignition):

A) Modify the air gap on a 12V compressor (something vintage looking, like a GM A6 in flat 10% gloss black) so a healthy 6v system will hold it closed (i have a big 80's style round compressor to test with)

B) Modify a newer compressor to be always on like the ones that came before 12v and do what the manual says (remove belt in cold weather to save compressor life)

Now consider that i usually only drive in the summer and not that many miles AND that removing a belt would be such nostalgic maintenance (like emptying my sediment bowl), this sounds pretty feasible.

The first option is just a gamble, but if it works i think i'd be home free (i know brackets and condensers, etc, but humor me on making the theory work. If the compressor works, AC will work with a good 6v blower fan under the dash, correct?)

The second option seems like an easy go if you're willing to accept that A) ac is on all the time (not so bad, it is on a lot of new cars even when using heat defrost, and i'm going to be driving in summer anyways) and B) you might have to take the belt of and modify the brackets to fit, etc. and all the work you have to do for AC

However, i know from expirimenting with my old car when i was younger, that a paperclip in the pressure sensor wire to keep that compressor running will get you 34 degree air out of the vents (man, i was 3 degrees from making ICE!) but it will also coat your receiver/dryer with a 1/4 of ice and finish that compressor off in 2 months. So, will running a modern compressor always on be ok (with shortened life, i don't mind doing a rebuild or replacement every 3 or so years with only like 3000 miles a year on the car) or is it creating some kind of high pressure issue...and if so, how can we correct it?

Thoughts? I KNOW i'm chasing the holy grail, but with a few concessions on compressor life or fiddling with belt removal in cold weather, we might just grasp it! And i bet it could be done to look decently vintage (as vintage as AC on a 50 packard can look.)

Afterthought edit: Or can we make an electric only unit that goes in the trunk? was that ever done? That uses a 6v motor to turn a compressor and do all the work (with some real current draw of course) and blows through vents in the back or routed to the dash? That could be workable...have to know if i could get a 6v motor to spin a compressor at the right RPM to work well i guess and use the signal that would go to close the clutch on the compressor to turn the driver motor on/off....tuck it in something vintage like an old coke cooler with some heavy gauge wires going into it and air vent in and air vent out..just thoughts. I'd like to solve this issue if nothing else for the challenge. I'll bust out that old compressor and play with the air gap this week.

Excellent...As long as there are options, when the time comes i know i won't be stuck with gauges and no way to adapt them. Might take some minor ingenuity, but what doesn't?

Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the bit of info, that's what i was wondering about. I believe the electrical version has a mechanical drive on the back of the gauge, but has switches to modify what that rpm actually shows on the speedo face. Kind of like recalibration on the gauge itself.

That project is getting pushed back while i do the 327 swap and ultramatic freshen up this winter, and just got a 71 pontiac to work on too, so some of the details on different cars are getting pushed to the side for the moment.

Oh, and then I'm getting married in September. That's a chunk of car money gone :(

I'm thinking of taking out the noisy broken speedometer and broken clock out of my 50 and putting in matching new american nickel series from classic instruments tach and speedo. I'm sure the tach will be no issue, but has anyone hooked up an aftermarket speedo to an ultramatic? I guess there's ford style and chevy (Which the salesman says is ford or everything else) They're electric programable (drive down the road and follow directions and set switches on the back of the speedo) so the correct speed isn't a problem, just wondering how it will work out connecting the cable.

Thanks!

HIlarious! Trust Turbopackman to have the right answer for anything packard, including a snappy comeback!

I have a 327 distributor in my 50 288 and i put the pertronix setup in it, runs super smooth. it's still 6 volt positive ground, but they make one for neg ground and 12 v too. I never miss an opportunity to recommend it. Looks stock and get rid of those annoying points and condenser!

edit: meant to pm

I'm glad i checked back in this thread! I'm going to have my motor out, so i'll yank the tranny, check the seals and adjust the bands, etc. and fill it properly. I'm betting with a low range band adjustment, correct fluid level and some new gaskets, mine will go like new.

heres hoping right? Now to see how it does behind that 4 barrel 327 with a new carter carb....

I'm new to Packards, so i may be far off base. But if i'm not mistaken the 33 standard is a straight eight correct? Any way you could make a distributor from a later eight fit?

If so, pertronix makes 6v + and - ground kits that look stock. I am VERY pleased with the 6v pos ground kit that i have on my 50 288, and will be getting the same for the 327 i am putting in. I love that it's still 6v and positive ground, but that it never misses a beat and i don't have any ignition maintenance. (although i did cheat by buying an alternator that was converted to 6v pos ground...tons of voltage no matter how low the rpm!)

I didn't see anything on their site that would replace what you have directly, but by putting a later distributor in, if possible, you could easily use one of their simple kits.

So overfilling can cause issues too then. Food for thought. Another strange thing I've noticed, and even when it was working great and not overfilled, etc. When i do an oil change per the service manual, when completely taking out the converter drain plugs, i never, ever, ever get a drop out. Not even a little. When i refill though per the manual it takes a ton. That's what made me suspect the front pump seal, doing enough to get some fluid in there but not enough to keep it full.

Who knows, getting another tranny and motor this week, will throw this one in the garage and ship it to Eric when he gets into rebuilds. :)