I thought fluid level too high would be pumped out near the tail housing somewhere....is fluid level too high a known issue? Mine seemed a lot better, then i thought fluid was too low and added and it ran out....went like crap after that it seemed. If it doesn't auto-correct, that could be a big issue of mine.

My water pump is on its way out and the ultramatic was giving me crap, so i parked it out of frustration. Then the GF was in a motorcycle accident so i've been busy for 8 weeks, haven't looked into it yet. The fluid too high did seem to make a negative effect on mine...and we have almost the same symptoms.

Thanks for the idea!

I'll check in the manual (have an original service manual that i can hold in my hands and flip through!) I think some kind of three ring puller can be used for the one sprint compressor..the other maybe a modified valve spring compressor? Will keep my eyes peeled.

What specifically is needed? I know the three pressure gauges for testing, but i'm sure those can be adapted no problem. What other tools should i keep an eye out for? I'll shoot you an email if i do find any in my wanderings.

Packman said he'd do them if he could get the tools, and if you follow his threads at all you'd know he can do just about anything he dreams up. Get ready to send it to Kansas!

Also, kanter sells rebuild kits for $400ish. The front seal that causes issues is like $30. Check your pan gasket that most shops just reuse for leaks, and i believe packman talked about two pistons with seals on them that can be serviced from under the car; they leak pressure past them.

Also, adjust your linkage, i believe that can cause slipping at take off.

I used lucas auto transmission additive in mine, and it seemed to help a lot with take off at first. I heard it might help swell the seals for a temporary bnand aid, and it seemed to.

The ultramatic service manual is here, download it and give it a try. When i get my second ultramatic installed i'll take a swing at rebuilding mine (in a 50 that leaks also).

Since i'll have the motor out, it should be really easy to replace those leaking tranny cooler lines. I put in a frame cooler and a plate type cooler (per packman) in front of the radiator. I left the original cooler in-line with them, i'll be taking it out of the loop when i switch motors and tranny's.
I really recommend this because when the engine gets warm you're heating the tranny and when the tranny fluid gets hot you're heating the motor. I just don't see much cooling effect going in either direction when up to temp. As soon as one system has a problem, it heats the other.


Good luck with your ultramatic. When mine's warm, it slips a little at take off, but it's never just "jumped" right into gear like a modern one. It leaks like a siv, has 40K on it. Maybe they're just a little slippery at take off? Need to drive a fresh one to see!

Wiper motor: My 23rd series (50)'s wipers didn't work...i re-connected the vacuum hose and nothing. Then i oiled it with 10wt fork oil via the input and the bleed on the other side and moved it some, and they came alive! They work great except when accelerating hard, but it's time to rebuild my vacuum/fuel pump that's supposed to help with that anyways :)

If you're going to drive it a lot, i HIGHLY recommend pertronix's 6V positive ground ignition kit for our car. A bit pricey at around $100, but no condenser or points to replace or adjust, my 288 loves it. No permanent modifications so you can go back at any time.

I put a modified 6V pos ground alternator on (although it's ugly next to everything else stock) and the hotter flamethrower coil, and a new set of wires after getting mine out of it's 15 year storage. Filled and bled the brakes (BONE DRY) and then i put 3500 miles on her in 6 months.

That car will be dead reliable and just a nice cruiser. Not many cars of that era will ride that well over crappy roads!

Good luck and welcome to the packard club.

Did you try it yet? Which color do you think would be closest to our gauges?

Excellent! I'm still getting good contact to the sides. My water pump is shot, it's rattling and the pulley wobbles like crazy so it's been warmer than usual. I have a new one ready to go on, and just wanted to make sure i wasn't adding trouble with the slightly more narrow belt.

And i'd have the ultramatic in my 50 rebuilt. Leaks like a siv and is finicky. Sign me up turbo!

This SAME thing happened on my 50 on the drivers and passengers front. I have some yellowing on all of my glass. At goodguys in columbus there was a vendor selling glass of any tint (i;d like brown to go with my brown interior on forest green car) for like $450 plus shipping for the whole car. Was about half the price i'd found elsewhere, and it'd be shiny clean all new pretty glass! Would probably do leaky rubber at the same time.

Now i just gotta find his card...

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I do not doubt your wisdom, but do have some questions.

If you had a narrower fan belt and it rode lower in the water pump pulley, would this not cause the pump to pump slightly more at a given rpm (not that i expect it to be enough to make a difference)

Why would it run hotter?

Also, i know these eights are strange ladies, but on most motors doesn't running a bit too advanced build heat instead of retarded?

I don't doubt what you're saying, i would just like to know the why behind it, especially the fan belt. I had to use a slightly narrower one to change sizes to one that would work with my 6v pos grnd alternator i put on my 50 288.