Thanks for the link HH56, if I read it correctly I am using more or less the correct fluid. It all started when I mistakenly put a quart of Type F in, as the #$% bottles all look alike. I usually use as close (to as I was told) Mercon III (Advanced Auto parts DextronIII/Mercon) after that mistake she just would not shift to second. I drained out as much as I could without a lift and added the usual. She hesitated but shifted into second nicely, on my way back after sitting at a car show for a few hours I need to stop a number of times to shift reverse, park etc and then ran nicely back home. Yesterday I took her out and have the same old problem of not shifting. To be honest the transmission is a little sloppy and needs a proper adjusting, I know what you are saying the the correct pressures and detend locations but am trapped without a lift. My main mechanic is now off rebuilding jet engines and have yet to find someone who I trust. The last mechanic guy disconnected my parking brake and lowered the idle beyond the stalling point, that was an exciting ride. Best I can do at this point is another drain off and hope for the best unless another snake oil treatment comes to mind.

I found a spare indicator a couple of years ago and finally gave up because I never thought I was doing it right but copied and pasted your post to try again. Since we are talking about the Ultramatic, lately my 55 Pat has been reluctant to shift out of low and may have used the incorrect fluid, I think (can't remember anything anymore) Mercon III as the one that worked the best but cannot find it anymore, any suggestions for either the memory or fluid, makes no difference.

Owen: Thanks for the information I will check with those supplies...Sorry to have interfered with the thread...

Owen:

Agreed some fill flash would have been better, how does it go? "Microsoft will always give you the car you always wanted". Some nice suggestions as to the next project however. I still will continue to the end of time with the Packard but I sorta like to build the trucks. After several calls to supplier of the Rochester rebuild kits, frankly I am not very confident as to the correct one, my model is identical to the Section XII in the 55 Pat service manual, any suggestions?

Sorry just one more photo.

Attach file:

---

  (64.38 KB)

All: Thanks for the input, the carb is off and ready for rebuilding and didn't break off the choke tube. I suppose if it is not broken or crushed a bit of cleaning should do, right?

Thought I'd post one last photo of the truck before the new owner picks her up.

Attach file:

---

  (48.69 KB)

HH56

Have attached a top shot showing how the choke heat tube decreases in size from the carburetor to the manifold, is this normal and what did you use for a shield? Thanks

Attach file:

---

  (13.30 KB)

Since the talk is about Carb.

I am finished with the 50 Chevy 5 window and need to refocus on my 55 Pat. The Rochester 4GC all always needed a rebuild and noticed that the choke heat tube where it connects to the manifold is corroded/rusted and looks very brittle. Suggestions would be appreciated as how I should proceed, I don't know how it is attached or if it is solid or a tube, should I just clean it up a bit and try not to break it or do a proper repair. Thanks

Attach file:

---

  (9.39 KB)


  (11.21 KB)

Cleaned all the contacts and pulled the sending unit and cleaned the sensor end. Best consistent oil pressure ever. Never will ever turn the corner on these cars as something always come up. Now that the engine is running smoother or perhaps it is now winter in Florida the carburetor and transmission shift linkage is perhaps off and the car is surging when the brake is on. I have an LD when it comes to the manual. Any suggestions to previous postings on the subject?


PS: Fixed the leaking intake manifold on the 69 327 in the 50 Chevy pickup but now have a leaking timing cover seal. Arugh!!

Good advice will check the connections. Just finished a 50 Chevy 5 window with a 327 and have found that the gauges are not always accurate. Will any of the over the counter oil pressure gauges work? PS also found out that I now drive two cars that are no longer made now that Saab is kaput.

My 55 patrician has developed an oil pressure issue. I changed the oil, using Castrol 10W-30 conventional with the C-4 Fram filter and noted to my satisfaction that the oil pressure increased by about one quarter. The next day the gauge showed one quarter less so I drained a quart and topped it off with Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. Simple fix I thought and the pressure was back up. The next day the pressure is down again. Should I have used the C-4P filter instead and 10W-40? I live in Florida and it is like 80 degrees today. The engine runs very smooth without any lifter noise (they were changed last year).