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In another post I mentioned my concerns about my Ultramatic, which seems to have D but not H.

One suggestion that makes sense is to check the alignment of the indicator and the linkage on/with the transmission.

Looking in the manual, it talks about adjusting the throttle linkage, then gives a paragraph about selector control linkage.

This is new and confusing ground for me. Which should go first?

Are there rubber bushings involved that will probably need replacement?

The trans works perfectly when cold, but when warm can be reluctant for direct drive to lock. Easing of the gas when the shift is expected usually solves the problem.

Suggestions? Pictures?

One note: the other thread focused on overhauling and/or replacing the trans. I'd appreciate it here if we can stay on topic...

The trans works perfectly when cold, but when warm can be reluctant for direct drive to lock. Easing of the gas when the shift is expected usually solves the problem.

Sounds to me like low hydraulic pressure - when cold the more viscous fluid compensates somewhat for pressure losses and as the fluid warms up and drops in viscosity the pressures drop. You could perform the diagnostic pressure tests if you wanted to confirm that diagnosis.

The first thing in any indicator adjustment would be to verify if there is any excess movement in the linkage before touching anything else. The most important place to check first would be the lever which works the valve inside the trans. That pot metal inside piece frequently loosens.

You can have your mechanic disconnect the selector rod from the outside lever at the rear of trans. The lever has a screw to the shaft so make sure that screw is tight. Move the lever between gears and feel the detents. Each position should be solid and tight. Once in a detent, try to wiggle the lever back an forth. The outside lever should be rock solid. If there is any movement possible over a very tiny amount -- maybe 1/16" or so at the lever end -- the setscrew locking the pot metal piece to the shaft inside the trans is suspect and must be examined. If the lever is loose it could be the cause of your problem. There are several discussions and a couple of photos on permanent cures elsewhere on the forum.

If the lever is solid then check for any selector rod wear or looseness at each joint and piece on the path back to the gearshift lever. Not sure if any bushings are used but there are some spring washers to keep things tight and could be some wear at a couple of places.

Once all is tight and the linkage is adjusted per the manual the indicator can be tackled. Remove the chrome plate under the dash that holds the rubber collar around the steering column. Move the rubber out of the way and you will see a clamp screwed to a part of the column. It is holding a curved piece of wire via a couple of setscrews. Verify what gear the trans is in and loosen the setscrews to move the wire piece so the indicator lines up. Tighten the setscrews while holding the wire indicator so it doesn't move.

Quote:
Prior to the advent of electronic controls, automatic transmissions made mechanical comparisons of various pressures to determine the approriate driving gear. Think of your old transmission, then, as a hydraulic computer which considers several inputs to determine an output. The basic inputs include:

- selector position (via the manual valve)
- engine RPM (via front pump pressure)
- vehicle speed (via governor pressure)
- driver demand (via throttle valve pressure)

A significant deviation in any of these inputs will, of course, give you the wrong output.

Therefore, external adjustments for the selector and throttle linkages to are needed to calibrate the corresponding transmission control valves, These linkages are completely separate things; it matters not which is done first. HOWEVER, be sure to study the revisions published in the SCs and STBs, which supplement the shop manualprocedures and specifications.

AFTER checking these adjustments, you should then perform the pressure tests. If you have High range with the selector in "D", but not in "H", you've probably got a pressure problem.

I'm no expert, but doubt if your condition is the result of bushing wear that would require overhaul/replacement. The one big difference that stands out between the hydraulic charts for the two selections is pressure from the rear pump (in "H"). IIRC, that pump can be changed in-car, but let's not get too far ahead of ourselves. I'm just speculating as to the cause.

Adjustments first, then pressure tests. Report back with your findings.

I found a spare indicator a couple of years ago and finally gave up because I never thought I was doing it right but copied and pasted your post to try again. Since we are talking about the Ultramatic, lately my 55 Pat has been reluctant to shift out of low and may have used the incorrect fluid, I think (can't remember anything anymore) Mercon III as the one that worked the best but cannot find it anymore, any suggestions for either the memory or fluid, makes no difference.

Here is an old discussion with the last 3 posts just a couple of months old and detailing the the latest fluid information.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=117992#forumpost117992

Unless there has been a really incompatible combination of fluids mixed which caused some kind of deterioration and gummed a valve up, I don't think the fluid would be that pertinent to your problem with delayed low release.

Can you elaborate more on the exact timing or symptom. When did it shift before vs where it wants to shift now. Is low still engaged when high engages so the engine tends to bog down. Does low seem to slip any and is the high range to direct drive also changed or is everything else OK. Any problem finding or selecting a gear. I know without a good indicator it's count the clicks but is there any lost motion finding a detent.

Without more info, I'd wonder more about throttle pressure and whether something in the linkage changed or is maybe out of adjustment.

Thanks for the link HH56, if I read it correctly I am using more or less the correct fluid. It all started when I mistakenly put a quart of Type F in, as the #$% bottles all look alike. I usually use as close (to as I was told) Mercon III (Advanced Auto parts DextronIII/Mercon) after that mistake she just would not shift to second. I drained out as much as I could without a lift and added the usual. She hesitated but shifted into second nicely, on my way back after sitting at a car show for a few hours I need to stop a number of times to shift reverse, park etc and then ran nicely back home. Yesterday I took her out and have the same old problem of not shifting. To be honest the transmission is a little sloppy and needs a proper adjusting, I know what you are saying the the correct pressures and detend locations but am trapped without a lift. My main mechanic is now off rebuilding jet engines and have yet to find someone who I trust. The last mechanic guy disconnected my parking brake and lowered the idle beyond the stalling point, that was an exciting ride. Best I can do at this point is another drain off and hope for the best unless another snake oil treatment comes to mind.

If the problem is fluid related, can't think of any snake oil treatment that would be any better than just draining some more of the contaminated out and refilling with good.

One thing I would check at the earliest opportunity you can is any slop in the selector linkage lever on the drivers side of trans. To do it you would have to disconnect the long rod at the trans lever so the car needs to be up and accessible. If the screw inside trans has loosened on the shaft so the outside lever can move more than a tiny bit where rod connects, there is a possibility you are sometimes not fully detenting or completely selecting a gear. That could certainly be a cause of some erratic operation.

The detent itself should be very strong because of two spring loaded plungers which press against the valve. The springs are supplemented by fluid pressure when driving. Been a couple of cases in the last year where one of the plugs retaining the fluid and spring on a detent plunger has come loose. The fluid escape really messes up shifting but it would be a constant thing -- not likely to be fine one trip and not the next. If the detent seems to be fairly weak that might be worth investigating.