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   All Posts (David Patla)


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Re: 1937 "120" Flywheel Bolts
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
Thanks for the info.
Dave

Posted on: 10/5 16:51:02
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1937 "120" Flywheel Bolts
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
I had my 1937 "120" engine rebuilt locally several years ago. I had a new ring gear installed on the flywheel and had it resurfaced, I've just realized that the shop never returned the bolting from the flywheel to the crankshaft and the shop is now out of business. I was able to purchase the correct 7/16 x 20 bolts from "Merritt" but since I didn't take this apart I was wondering if lock washers are needed on these bolts? My master parts list doesn't list any lock washers, the part number for the bolts is 300162. Just trying to avoid a future major problem. Thanks

Posted on: 9/22 18:44:50
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
Thanks for all the good feedback. I'm thinking now that it would be easier and safer to reinstall the engine, keep the front clip off and then remove the springs and complete the front end work. I also need to replace the bearings in the center link, I was thinking it would be easier with the engine out but sounds like it would be easiest to remove and reinstall the springs with the engine reinstalled. The engine is rebuilt and ready to go back in.

Posted on: 9/3 8:14:43
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1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
I'm planning on removing the coil springs on my 37 "120" and complete some front end work. What is the proper sequence and suggestions of removing chassis parts to safely complete the removal of the coil springs? Currently the complete nose is off the car and the engine is removed so it's basically just the frame and front end. The shop manuals are not that clear on this. Thanks

Posted on: 9/2 17:04:33
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Re: 1937 120-c convertible front bow
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
If that added wooden strip wasn't there I would have a slightly larger gap, doesn't seem as big as yours however with that added strip it does cover the gap. Does your bow have nail holes in it from that strip? Mine looks like this was original but who knows, could have had a new top installed in the 50'S and could have been added, but if it was added they did an excellent job because it was a perfect fit? I can agree with the other comments on the flexing and warping of the bow over time with a tight fitting top? Also sorry for the confusion the metal bow I'm referring to is the one forward of the rear wood bow as seen in the attached photo's, it looks to me like there is a specialty bolt needed to attach this bow?
Thanks
Dave

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Posted on: 8/21 5:14:30
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Re: 1937 120-c convertible front bow
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
I'm also on about the same phase of a restoration of a 37 "120" conv. coupe. I took a look at my original header bow today and set it on the windshield frame and only had a slight gap. My header bow also has a strip of wood about 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch attached to it as seen in the photo's. This is forward of the groove for the rubber seal.
My car was a partially disassembled basket case when I got it and a question I have for you is on the metal bow attachment bolts. I'm missing them and they look to me that they were 1/2-13 bolts threaded about a half inch below the hex head, then just a straight shaft thru the bow and into the mounting bracket? If this is correct I'm going to have them made unless anyone knows where I can obtain a couple?
Thanks
Dave

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Posted on: 8/20 18:12:58
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Re: 1937 "120" Running Board Rubber Installation
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
Thanks everyone for the great advice, I will definitely use the Weldwood adhesive. I'm still not clear on what to use to fill in the areas between the ridges on the running boards? I had purchased the mats a few years ago from Steele and they are flat bottomed. A vendor in Hershey told me to use bondo for a flat surface but I question this? I now understand there is another vendor selling replacement mats that are not flat bottomed but I have to stick with what I purchased already since they are quite pricey.
Thanks
Dave

Posted on: 8/3 18:18:04
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Re: Rivets
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
Let me clarify, on my 1937 "120" the grill shell to hood welting used the split rivets, the body cowl to hood used a short spiral nail which are available from Merrit

Posted on: 7/18 18:01:13
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Re: Rivets
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
They are split rivets, not pop rivets. they have a 5-16 head on them, I'm not sure on the exact length, they are available on e-bay, search on "split rivets" use the nickel plated.

Posted on: 7/18 6:02:57
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1937 "120" Running Board Rubber Installation
Not too shy to talk
Joined:
2015/2/25 17:00
From Southampton, Ma. 01073
Posts: 21
Would anyone have any suggestions or helpful tips before I start installing new running board rubber matting purchased from Steele Rubber on a 1937 "120"? The replacement mats are flat bottomed so I was told by a person I met in Hershey to sandblast the running boards, apply bondo over the boards to make them flat, then apply formica glue to attach to the running boards. Before I start I would appreciate any suggestions if anyone has done this before.
Thanks
Dave

Posted on: 7/17 8:46:17
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