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3200 is out of my range, but it is sweet!
W

Just saw this on Youtube and I thought this would be good to share. No sound and it looks like the radiator was already removed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jFheOt3CtI
Wes

If only I could work that fast! Did the Flash have offspring or is there a new super pill available

I like that he could work under the car with it not appearing to be raised -- although I think I did see the front end jump just about the time they brought the table out. If no jack stands, my springs must really be shot because I can't fit under my 47 like that guy does.

Yea! That's why I just can't slide under my car like I use to, the springs have sagged, time for new springs!
Wes

It would have been interesting if they had a large clock in the picture to see how much time it took.

It would also be interesting to know why they took it apart. It looked like a nicely painted engine and no oil or grease that I could see.

Quite a few things going on there. To start no head or manifold and a very dry engine.

But still did you notice the engine stand? Just a regular stand with some blocks put under the front of the engine after it was positioned.
Wes

I'm currently working on a double-ended stand specifically for Packard engines from 1954 and back (not sure how far back!) and, while my shop has only very limited power, there is a manufacturer in town willing to assist. Making an adapter to hold the rear of the engine is straight forward and I'm making it to hold the block directly, to hold the Ultramatic's thin bell housing and to hold the standard bell housing but am somewhat stuck on how to attach to the front while still keeping it accessible! For 1951-1954, it can probably use the side engine mounts but pre-1951 did not have them. Any ideas?

Also, looking for a source for a suitable worm reduction gearbox with 15:1 or greater for rotation and prefer not to have to buy a pre-made stand just to get it. Anyone know of a suitable one that is new and readily available?

I was poking around for something else and came across this worm gearbox, and it won't break the bank.

https://www.fasttobuy.com/nmrv030-worm-gear-reducer-635mm-input-for-nema-23-stepper-servo-motor-ratio-801-701-601-501-401-301-201-101-51_p36196.html

Yes, I came across that one too on many sites but they are sourced from India and China (possibly with child labor) and I prefer domestic if possible. In fact, India seems to be a major supplier of rotary gearboxes for some reason. Also, not quite the configuration I would prefer as I'm looking for something thin and enclosed more like this.

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If you want front and rear support that can rotate the engine you would need to make two adapters with adjustable arms that would accommodate the various blocks to place the pivot point in the same plane. I don't know how much access to the camshaft and timing area you would have with a front support as the only substantial bolt holes the arms could bolt to would possibly block that area because of the pivot plate and the arms have to extend across. The lack of front access and easy rotation is one thing that those that use dual stands or the stand and the box approach have mentioned

You could always make the stand a bit taller than commercially available units and use a changeable adapter to mount it from the side as Packard did. Inline 8s used a bar that spanned the length of the block plus a couple of inches on each end. There was another bar with hooks that went across the block front and rear to grab the edges of the lifter compartment. Add an adjustable leg off the long side piece about midpoint that would swing fore and aft or even use a second set of holes to catch the mount holes on 51-4 engine or the gear shift idler lever or Electromatic power cylinder holes on the pre 51 engines.

For the trans and V8s you could make it so the front pivot end removes and then have a second and shorter adapter with adjustable arms along the lines of the modern V8 type adapters.

A premade reducer that large is going to cost $$. For what you need to do It might be more cost effective to just get a worm gear and mount it on a shaft via a couple of pillow block bearings. Have a mating drive gear splined or even welded to a shaft which works a block the adapters could bolt to. That would be supported via a bushing in the stand. Cover the whole assy with a sheet metal cover The various adapters would bolt to that tilting block and you could make specialized adapters if you wanted.

Do a search for worm gear drives and check out the individual worms and gears at McMaster-Carr. They also have quality premade units.

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