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Thank you, Howard. Yes, I've looked at every possible worm gearbox and gear-set option available and had just about come to the same conclusion of making one from a gear-set. Finding one premade is preferrable as all labor will cost but nothing so far. The one in the photo was designed for opening and closing valves and is the closest physically but not a good ratio.

As for the stand itself, I have been searching and saving photos of all types for years and I am keen on end to end with full rotation but we'll see what I end up with. Packard's own seems awkward at best and does not seem safe to me. Whatever it is I make, if it's viable I'll make several as I have a number of engines from 1940 110 to 359. Right now I am building a mockup using a pair of inexpensive manual (no gearbox) rotary stands that I already have and adding the gearbox but the final ones will be stronger than these and possibly with a wider stance.

Finding either a good compromise for the pivot centerline or making different adapters at different positions is also an interesting challenge. Ultimately, though, it will probably have some built-in stationary support for front block work which should be easy to incorporate as this type of work is generally done at the beginning and end of a rebuild where all pivoting needed has already been done.

PackardDon,

How about these actuators
https://www.bray.com/actuators/manual-operators/series-04

They are one brand we use at work

Yes but they are like the one I showed except that they include the valve. The problem is that they have a very "fast" ratio of something like 4:1 with 1/4 turn on and off while I need 15:1 ratio or greater. So far I think Howard's idea to use my own gearset and make a housing is the best idea and not difficult to do overall.

I just wanted to post my option on using an engine stand. I mounted a front bracket with a pipe bolted to it for a front pivot in line with the one on the regular engine stand. To this I attach the overhead chain hoist. The C-clamp stops the chain hoist's hook from straying away from the block and increasing its load on the pipe.
It is now stable yet rotates through the full 360. You could do the same with a drilled out 2x6 I guess, but it is nice to have fewer tripping issues below the block, and the chain hoist is a little easier to adjust the unit to level.
Bob J.

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