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Max Merrit shows 2 sets of points for that year range for an autolite dist....one costs $40.00 (354263) and one costs $15 (354262). I called them and they said the 354262 was the correct ones for that dist number, so i ordered a few sets.

I'll probably rebuild and clean up the delco one too. Then i can be the local packard ignition stock guy.

I did try the 6v napa coil on the current system, with the newer spark plug wires and no real difference in spark. I'll get a one points dist or another in there shortly and check the plug gap and try again. Full tank of gas and pressure to the carb, don't think it's fuel problem all of the sudden. Just thinking i finally injured the pertronix unit by doing exactly opposite of what i was told.

For IGT-4203 and others that use the same points, Standard's AL-5255XP has been superceeded by CS-721A.

I guess i have no way of knowing if those IGT points work with the IGP dist as well.

I got 5 sets from MM, and i'll rebuild the delco as well. I'll get a spare 6v coil and throw in the trunk, along with my spare carb after its rebuilt. I should have about a spare motor going!

The IGT distributors were used for 1940-50 Senior models with the 356 engine. The original Auto-Lite part number for the point set for these distributors was IGP-3028MS and they will not interchange with the points for the IGP series of distributors.

Excellent info to have.

Interesting note, when i starting googling info, this thread came to the top of the list within hours. When we take the time to quote part numbers and uses and interchanges, google takes notice. If you're looking for "packard cs16" or "packard what coil" we're within the top 10 results for sure, asap.

Good job everyone!

Rebuilt the spare autolite with parts i bought and new car, etc and everything except plugs and wires. Installed per gap instructions found on here. No spark at all.

Took cap off, tested for grounded hot side of points (no) tested for grounded condenser wire (no) tested for cap to rotor continuity (yes). Tested for power to coil (yes) and coil polarity (correct).

Finally, saw that the points weren't closing all the way, even on the flat side of the bumpy spark pusher round thing. loosened the screw, pushed them closed, and hillbilly gapped them, and instantly spark.

Fired it up and backed it out into the sunshine and tuned it a bit. Set the idle for 500, engine rocks a little but not a ton like it did before, when i thought i was chasing a vacuum leak.

(I changed to the metal faced gaskets and now have an exhaust leak from chasing the intake leak i thought i had. Dammit.)

Interesting thing to notice is that the car wants more advance when running than will allow it to start easily. Will try to think of a way to let it have lots of advance running but less to start. Maybe it's too far advanced, didn't get to road test it yet.

Also, bought a complete tune up kit for the delco dist, and will clean and paint and rehab it all nice.

Idle vacuum is about 18HG, i thought i read that that was a healthy number?

Thanks all for the help so far troubleshooting all these issues...it can get discouraging, and i know i would have given up without this site.

Here's some pics of how the engine bay on the whole project came out overall:

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That is one VERY ATTRACTIVE engine compartment, though there are some things I know you're aware of that a purist like me would ordinarily comment on. But I won't. Congratulations - looks very nice!

18" of Hg vacuum is a very good number, even better if it's rock-steady at that value.

Thank you!

Yes, i know the chrome head bolts, different fan, wrong color green, wrong decals in the wrong place won't win me any packard show trophies, but i think they'll get some people under the hood and away from the mustang's etc.

It wavers maybe 17.5 to 18 at idle. I put some MMO and seafoam in the gas and oil to run through for a tank.

I did have a clacking lifter or fuel pump or something but it seems gone now. Thinking maybe wacky ignition was firing one cylinder too early and making it knock, or was the fuel pump arm or something. Oh well, if i don't hear it now and it doesn't come back, i'm happy.

Next is the highway test. Up to 85ish, run a mile, bring it back down. Hopefully i've lost the top end light miss also.

Took it for a test drive, little bit of ignition break up under load, around 50mph wot headed slightly up a grade. Might have to do with the "hillbilly gapping". Then again, i didn't check the plug gap, but i had it gapped way wider than stock according to pertronix setting. I wouldn't think that'd make a big difference, but i had a truck run TERRIBLE one time because of plug overgap. I'll have to check that tomorrow.

Gap the points with a feeler gauge according to spec. If u are trying to use a dwell meter then probably getting erroneous readings. Gap eith feeler gauge FIRST then use the dwell meter. IF dwell meter reads wrong then dwell meter is bad.