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the fan was mostly for the occasional wedding or parade use. that is why i have it on a seperate switch. and the mounting of this fan allows more air through then then previous one did that they had mounted on the original radiator. otherwise, I agree with you that the new radiator will provide far superior cooling properties over the old one.....it also weighs about 1/3 the weight, lol! it is a fine piece of bling for sure! should bring up some conversation at car shows.


the water pump and fuel pump are finished at Terrill Machine.

He had to modify the water pump a bit and machine it some. the hub end was also warped so he machined that as well. should be here tomorrow.

anyone looking for starter brushes for autolite MAX 4006. here is a list of a few.

MAW-2012S, F725, 20-1514, 5A1059, EX37, X328, ECH A505, and CX26


CX26 is from autozone and was the cheapest with shipping/tax/etc at this time.


the tape i'm using to rewrap the field coil is 3M Scotch 27 glass cloth electrical tape.

i could not find a part number for the field coil, so i'm just going to rewrap it.

Henry, a parade fan - good idea. I have seen these fans activated by a temperature sensitive switch. Looks like a sending unit for an electrical gauge and installed the same way. Fan automatically comes on when a certain temperature is reached. This is probably too much a complication for your intended infrequent use.

I have an aluminum radiator in my hot rod. It was unpainted when I got the car. A nice looking item - like yours - but too visible for me. I removed it and sprayed it with a light coating of black lacquer. It blends in better now.

(o[]o)

Dull/flat black has the highest emissivity. A properly rebuilt engine and a new radiator painted with a thin coat of flat black should perform just like when new, that is an auxiliary fan should not be needed

just wanted to point out this is page 37 of the blog. hehe

started rebuilding the starter. rewrapped the field coil and soldered in the new brushes.

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Nicely done !

thanks i try very hard to do good work. doesn't always come out the way i would like.

here are some more pictures showing how i held the brushes so i could install the armature. also the armature is "pressed" into the end cap, making sure to line up the slot with the peg and the oil tube with the oiler on the outside.

also the grease cup on the side of the distrubtor has a seal at the bottom that i was not aware of when cleaning it with a wire brush. (black part past the threads at the bottom) so i just used what i had laying around....a shower head washer....then i took the wire brush to it and shaved it down till it was slightly bigger then the treads. the cap threaded on for a perfect fit.

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As far as I know from working on generators the armature is not pressed into anything. Them drive end bearing fits on a bit snugly, that's all I recall.

On the dist grease cup. it is a standard machine/automotive/hardware item and has no washers or anything else than 2 pieces of metal that screw together. Perhaps someone in the past put some hardening rubber goo on the threads

the plate with the slot and the grease cup on the armature is what i'm talking about. it is a pretty damn snug fit. i didn't use a press...i just hammered it in with a 90 degree pair of needle nose by hitting on the pliers till it went in and bottomed out on the lip. you can see the imprints from the tip of the pliers along with some from others that have rebuild this starter motor.

as to the grease cup...it is threads at the top...then seal...then wave washer piece....then some metal that interlocks with the wave washer piece and that holds it all together.

there was a harder paper or rubber washer in there before..probably from age..when i took it to the wire brush on my bench grinder..it cleaned all that out of the groove and i had to put a new seal on.

i'm not saying i'm right, just saying what i saw.

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Henry, nice job on wrapping the field coils. I did not see a thrust washer on the commutator end. Usually it is leather. How much end play did you end up with?

Another way to hold brushes out of the way when assembling the starter is to push the brushes out of their holders so the top of the brush is just above the top of the holder. Then, use the brush spring to hold the brush in its retracted position. When all is assembled just move the brushes down.

Also, agree with Fred, no washers on the distributor grease cup fitting.

The Packard is going to be so much better after you are finished. A real tribute to your grandfather.


(o[]o)