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Remove one of the solenoids from the bracket and do a couple of tests to confirm what you have.

With nothing from TL connected, connect ground from the battery to the solenoid case. Using a wire from the hot terminal on battery touch that to the small solenoid terminal. If the solenoid energizes it is the wrong kind and you will need different solenoids.

If nothing happened on the first test, remove the ground connection from the case. Connect the hot lead to one of the large terminals. Touch ground to the small terminal. If it energizes note which terminal the hot lead is on and mark it as Battery.

If it does not energize the first time then put the hot lead on the other large terminal. Touch ground to the small terminal again. If it energizes this time then mark the large terminal the hot is connected to as battery. If it still does not energize I would question the solenoid. Doubtful it is damaged but would question if it got mixed up and if it is really a 12 volt solenoid.

Once you confirm the solenoid works then the other solenoid should be the same. Remount both solenoids to the bracket so that the 12v buss bar will be connected to the marked terminals on both solenoids.

Howard
I'm sure glad you are on the Packard team not saaayyy....the AMC team.

Once again your patience in repeating all these detail over and over again, to every new person that logs on here is amazing.

I have the wrong solenoids. I did the first test you suggested by removing one from the car and grounding the casing. Then touching the hot battery terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid and it energized. It was a successful failure.

I went ahead and ran the other test, on the large terminals just to satisfy my own curiosity and nothing happened.

I found a conversation on here that you had with Henry back in January of 2009 on this same subject. You posted a suggestion that someone else recommended of using the Cole-Hersee #24046. I looked at the Specs for that model and the ones I have (#24071) and they are identical.

Looks like I was right last night in that I need a real 56 control box (wired for negative ground and 2 solenoid.
Any one have a suggestion on the correct cole-hersee model that replaces these. Otherwise I'll just fork out double the dollars and get them from Max's
Thanks

I am not convinced you need a new control switch yet but it would be nice to know if yours is old style or solid state.

Here is the difference in solenoids. It is unfortunate the C-H site is less than clear on the insulated/grounded definition.

The 24071 is grounded and is type B in the diagram. The 24046 is insulated and is type C. It has been used with the TL by several on the forum.

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That solenoid we discussed (24046) is hard to come by. Most parts places are "back order". Stopped at my local NAPA today where they know me. They can't get it. They pulled out several others that they had in stock but none would do what I needed. They did not think the 24046 would do it either but can't be sure.

So, tonight I came home and dug out the original solenoids. They were showing rust and some corrosion but I scrapped off a good deal of the plastic that was left and media blasted them and they are starting to look good.

I ran the same test I did last night and they appears to work fine.

I was just trying to put as many new parts as possible in that portion of the T/L hopping it would be trouble free but I guess I will just stick with the old ones for now so I can move one.

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Why not just get the appropriate solenoids from Cole-Hersee?

For one, we are not 100% sure which model to get.

Second the Cole Hersee page says "Cole Hersee Company does not deal factory direct; rather thru an established network of distributors". All the online distributors that I found are on back order. Those that do have them want almost as mush as Max's does for the real thing.

I see no reason why the originals won't last for as much as they would be sued.

I am open to suggestions.

The 24046 seems to still be available from several places but you are right in that the prices are all over the place. Cheapest I saw was $22 from RyderFleet and all the way to $50. According to this description from the C-H catalog the PVC equivalent is 24077. Possibly those are in better supply.

If you had a 56 there would be other options because the physical form could be different. With the 55 and the rigid limit switch buss bar connection you are limited in physical style.

The only concern I would have using your old is if they were sitting a long time in a damp environment. I believe it was Randy who had one of the old solenoids on a new acquisition suddenly act up and start the TL moving on its own. When he cut the solenoid apart to see what happened he found a lot of rust inside.

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I was looking at the 24077 earlier but was not sure if it at the time.

I checked out that Ryder Fleet site for the 24046 and they are also back ordered.

I did find 1 of the 24046 on Ebay but I also found 2 of the 24077. They are just as hard to find as the other. I went on and bought the 2 plastic coded 24077 solenoids ($82 total w/shipping). That's half the price over Max's price.

While I wait for those to arrive. Why do you think the control box might not need replaced. Yes, it works in my test but only on positive ground. When I tried negative ground I got no ready at all on the meter.

I guess I am still questioning what control switch you are using. As mentioned, the original bimetal type is not polarity sensitive as evidenced by Packard placing the 56 switch on 55s. Is the cover of the new switch riveted on or just held with screws and nuts? If just screws it would be easy to remove the cover and verify what type you have.

If it is a solid state rework and polarity specific, a 56 switch should work on negative ground. If it is a 55 style reworked switch then positive ground. Whether they are polarity specific is the big question. If they are the vendors should at least put some kind of sticker on the box or indicate in paperwork. So far no one knows or has wanted to answer the question. I know it has been asked a couple of times on the forum. If they are not polarity specific then it should work either way.

It is possible the switch is working but the test is inconclusive because the meter is reading across something internal. It may test better with a load so you could use one of those new solenoids to test it without mounting anything up. Polarity doesn't care on the solenoids and would be a good load for the purpose.

You would connect the battery ground to frame as per normal. Connect the center terminal of the control switch and the solenoid small terminal to the hot lead of battery. Let the solenoid hang so it doesn't touch the frame and use a clip lead or length of wire to connect one of the direction terminals on the control switch to the solenoid case. Move the lever one way or the other and wait for the time delay. In one direction of the lever, the solenoid should energize. Move the clip lead to the other direction terminal and move the lever the opposite direction to test again.

Just for grins, in case you hadn't seen it here is what the bimetal switch looks like internally.

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Just confirming, the Cole-Hersee solenoid for TL is 24046 (ungrounded).