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Thanks, Ernie. We're going to bypass that whole apparatus to the fuel pump and make sure it isn't the check valve. But what's hard it that it was doing this before I added the check valve.

We may drain the tank again, but now since adding 10 gal we have 18 gal to deal with.

Joe...I think the problem is a wire that is not tight. Wiggle everything gently by hand. I worked on a classic recently and the problem turned out to be the ignition switch wire at the back of the switch!

Another similar problem was a fuse block that had been added to a Model A Ford and the swedge that held two parts of the thing had come just slightly loose.

In both cases I was stumped until I just started to wiggle things from one end of the system to the other.

Ernie

Every inch of this engine, John has redone that way. However I'll check the back of the ignition switch. Everything is tight, new.

It just puzzles me that the engine runs so well, except with you go up hill and apply the gas to go up it. It's doesn't falter at higher rpms, but only under load.

I had a very similar problem with my 400 that almost drove me to drink. In the driveway the car would run fine but soon as I when up an large incline the car would buck and sputter and some times die. Than it would be very difficult to restart. In the end it ended up being a bad condenser. Once it was under a sustained load it would fall on its face.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto

James has a great point. Even new condensers can fail pretty quickly these days. A quick change will tell the tail and we should all carry a spare in our road kits. Ernie

Thanks for the suggestion, James/Ernie,
I checked with the outfit that rebuilt the distributor yesterday and fellow said he checks and renews the condenser. I got a condenser at NAPA yesterday for an Autolight IGT distributor and installed it last night. I did the bench test with a multimeter on the one I took out and it was functioning. W e'll see if that makes a difference.

My workload really increased this week and last week was filled with wrapping up the latest issue of the Oregon Clipper which is at the printer's (Petrosino). The prom is the 19th. That isn't moving.

I may drop the tank and slosh it out just to be sure nothing is floating around in there and plugging up the outlet when the car is inclined. (I did try jacking up the front of the car while it was running, but it didn't make a difference. Perhaps not enough of an incline.

We're going to bypass the fuel line apparatus today and check the filter that's integrated into the opening of the carb.

OK. I replaced the condenser with a brand new one, but the old one tested good with my multimeter.

I siphoned all the gas from the tank and dropped it. Really checked it well this time. I also ordered a new tank from Mauricio Santos in Ft Lauderdale, but it won't be here that soon.

I made a copper fuel line bypassing all my fancy apparatus. I charged the battery because now we don't have an electric fuel pump to call on if we get stuck again.

We made a video of the test run and the car is doing what it has been doing since we replaced the old Carter carburetor with the Stromberg just rebuilt by Daytona Parts taking 7 weeks and great expense. Take a look at this test run.

Here is the video link. Let me know if you have a problem watching it.
http://www.mktx.com/packard/5-12TestRun.mp4

Any more suggestions?

Is the flex hose to the fuel pump new and what is the condition of the metal fuel line? Any areas particularly in a hidden spot where the line could have worn or developed a pinhole that allows the pump to draw air under vibration or increased suction demand? The load or incline could be the trigger that changes things. Any leaks in the exhaust or areas where the two are close that could be heating the fuel line and making the fuel more sensitive to vapor lock conditions. Have you completely ruled out a problem with the ign switch and the wire in the armored cable. Are the motor mounts tight and nothing is shifting or torquing engine wise that could be causing a wire to pull or short.

I know these are grasping at straw things but they have all been featured in the old Gus Model Garage articles where Gus figures out what odd thing has stumped other mechanics.

I'll check those, Howard. Thanks for the reminder.
The fuel line is new except for the long stretch from the right side to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is new. I will check.

EDIT Reading Chris blog, hose may be my issue as well. All of the line from the tank to the right side pickup is new and direct...no epump, check valve or pressure regulator. So that leaves the line from the rear to the mechanical fuel pump. I'll try a temp bypass of new hose to eliminate that.

Can you let me know how the new gas tank is? If the filler neck fits ok through the chassis.
Thanks