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Gentlemen & (Ladies),

I'd like some advice on placing a modern radiator in my 400. I've had the old one rodded out etc. but the fellow at the radiator shop advises only to run a 3lb cap! I ran a 7 lb and yesterday determined that the temperature still got too hot for the 7lb cap. When he pressure tested my unit in the tank we observed the tubes flexing under pressure. Since it was already 100 degrees here in the desert SW, and because I eventually want to also drive the 400 at high elevation (7000'+) and get modern air-conditioning too, I'm interested in your thoughts. I'd like to stay 'original looking' in appearance if possible but given my wants I'll concede if necessary. Suppliers and or sources appreciated.

Thanks.

Pic of the present upper tank.

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There was a small thread on the AACA forum 4 yrs agohttp://forums.aaca.org/f134/radiator-216308.html where one poster mentioned he was adapting a Ford truck radiator. Turbopackman must have also been involved.

For some reason, I have pictures of brackets that were posted. No photos seem to show over there anymore and looking at the radiator, not sure why they were made or if needed. The partsamerica site mentioned is no longer good but here is a photo of Napa's cross for the part numbers given--regular and the heavy duty mentioned. The top connection is not in the center location but if everything else size wise works & fits, that should be a small detail with a different hose.

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Any reason why you're thinking that simply recoring to OEM specs would be inadequate?

I would have it re-cored. Have the tanks taken off, and a completely new core installed.

I am sure having a "cool" cooling system in Arizona is especially important.

I think I might also consider an additional transmission cooler while you're at it.

Hey Kevin, you ask an excellent question. With the 110 to 118 degree days we endure in the summer, older cooling systems are tested to the design limits. You would probably be ok with no air-conditioning simply doing a re-core, but with AC I have my doubts. Perhaps a custom-made aluminum radiator would be worth investigating. I have long struggled with getting cars of this vintage to cool effectively enough to consistently run the AC in traffic or up sustained grades.

I am guessing Craig might have some excellent feedback as his climate is very comparable to ours.

Best of luck!
Jim

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&searchTerm=433433

I'm using the above radiator in my 56 Exec. It is a TITE LINE-to-LINE fit in the recess of the horse collar. Also check for hood clearence with radiator cap. MIne has a very uncomfortable 1/32 inch clearence but has presented NO problems over the last 3 years of use. Be sure that hte upper tanks bottom edge does not rub the horse collar when installed.

For installation i removed the Ford side brackets from the new radiator. Used a 1-1/2 x 1/8 steel support along bottom of rad with cradle type rubber saddles (ala GM). The suppoort will require drilling 2wo holes in each frame rail for mounting. Used rubber Gm saddle type upper radiator mounts at each angles end of upper tank.

It's a real bitch to install but has worked out just fine for me over the last 3 years and 6-8k miles.

From the pictures, except for cap location looks very similar to the Fords mentioned above. Do you recall what upper hose you wound up using for that right side inlet. Did you keep the Packard oil cooler or use the one in radiator. The AACA forum also mentioned brackets. Is that what you meant by cradle type rubber supports. Any chance that's your post at AACA and any pictures?

Recore and rodding out radiators. The rest of the storey:

Here's what noone will tell u but u'll most likely find out AFTER u look at the bill REAL CLOSE!

The radiator shop will invariably write " weak core" or Weak tanks" or weak something on the bill. THIS gives the service provider an "out" in case the rad only lasts 2 or 3 years.

During the 70's and most of 80's NEW AFTERMARKET replacement rads were not as commonly available as they are today. Dealers charged and arm and a leg for new oem rads. So recore and rodding was a standard procedure during the pre 1990's. In most cases the rodded or recored radiators would usualy only last 2 to 4 years.

U can rod or recore if that's your choice. BOTTOM LINE is that u are running the risk of weak tanks especialy on post war cars. The other problem is that with good solid tanks that are much more than 10 years old have a great deal of impregnated corrosion that not even the best of acid dips will ever completely remove.