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What width whites did you get? I was pricing the Extra Wide Whites 225 75R15s with the 3-3/8" white walls.

I guess I need to update my blog. I have some other posts on threads that should be here, but I get a little disorganized some times.

I had encountered some wiring issues, mainly deteriorated/eaten cloth insulation. I wasn't about to let that hinder my forward progress, or hamper my urgent desire to make a test drive. I wasn't going to drive without brake lights or turn signals either, so what did I do? Well, I'm about to tell you.

Seems like most of my wiring that needed attention was in the trunk, primarily because the lights had been removed and the wiring disturbed in preparation for body work 27 years ago. This old cloth covered wiring doesn't fare well when moved, exposed to the elements, or introduced to rodents for that matter. So my tail lights were in a box, and the wiring in the trunk was missing insulation in many areas.

I could have ordered a partial harness from Nagassarett (Taillight harness w/ turns & back-up lights ........ 27.15) and will someday, but I'm too impatient, and on a tight budget. So I went to the HD and bought some liquid electrical tape. Worked like a charm! I've since used it on some ignition wiring, and other bare spots that showed up in the engine compartment. See photos. The label machine helps too.

That's my trick/temp fix for the day!

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Joey: I got the Diamond Back "Fury" with 2 3/4 inch whitewalls.

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Beautiful! I hope mine will look half that good someday.

Today I posted this on the thread, "Engine cuts out on highway & up hill..." in response to fory's fuel problems:

I have been having similar problems with my '48. After doing all the fuel tank, carb, and filter stuff, mine would would idle all day long but die after a short drive, only to start back after a brief rest. I determined it was fuel starvation by pouring a little gas into the carb and firing it up.

I have been reading some threads here; I know about BigKev's fuel tank issue, and considered that until today.

After a test drive, I pulled it back into my shop and disconnected the fuel line at the carb (I don't have a glass bowl filter there) and turned the engine over. Nothing came out. I was reading earlier about vented gas caps, so I checked mine. This time when I removed the cap, the air rushed in and I could even hear the tank pop back from the equalization of pressure.

Most modern aftermarket caps are not vented, and this was another one I tried today that I had lying around.

After removing the cap, I turned the engine over with the line still off, and viol?... I had fuel delivery.

Gas caps must be vented.

This issue was also addressed n the thread, "Strange 327 Knock."

Back to the drawing board.

The drive today revealed that the problem is still the fuel tank rust. Removing the gas cap didn't solve the problem. After returning to my shop, I removed the fuel filter that I had placed at the tank, and it revealed a cup full of rust and debris coming from the intake side.

I investigated Renu USA, found one in my area, and got a quote of at least $400. After consulting a friend, I visited the Eastwood site, and decided to invest $50 in their Gas Tank Sealer Kit, which had great reviews. I figure if it's done right, it may last. $400 or more plus shipping to and fro is more than I can afford at this time.

The good news is that the fuel from the filter to the pump/carb is still nice and clean. The filter did it's job.

I ordered the Eastwood gas tank repair kit over a week ago, and finally completed the process today. I have to say that I am very optimistic about the results- the process took a little longer than I intended, mainly due to the quantity of rust in my tank, but I'm satisfied with the product and the results so far.

After it dries for 48 hours, I will be able to reinstall the tank and report the results.

I just couldn't afford the $400+ Renu USA repair, and I was starting to get tired of driving around with two 5 gallon gas cans in my trunk, one vented and hooked up to my fuel line, with the smell of gas permeating the interior. Good thing I don't smoke.

I also went the extra mile and used the redneck cement mixer technique for rust removal.

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Take a look at Diamondback's 700:R15. No, I didn't miss any numbers - that is the way they are listed. Dwight H put them on his Caribbean and said he likes the look and the way they handle. Just another option.

IMO the 7:00R15 is the most interesting development in collector car tires in years; it's claimed to be radial construction with the dimensional characteristics (most importantly the aspect ratio) of a bias ply tire. So that should alleviate annoying little issues with "modern" sized radials like speedometer error, clearance in the fenderwells, etc. I think this tire will do well in the market if the pricing is reasonable.

Hey guys,

Thanks for the input!

Will that be the correct size for my 22nd series considering the literature calls for a 7.60-15?