Congratulations. Without a filter, gravity with a couple of feet as a head should provide plenty of fuel pressure so unless you were running fuel thru the typical ceramic filter Packard used I expect you still have a carb issue you need to sort. No idea how much pressure a lift pump will supply but the stock mechanical pump on the engine puts out about 4 1/2 psi. Those old carbs cannot accept much more than 5 or 6 psi or pressure will overpower the inlet valve operated by the float and gas will pour into the carb and then leak down into the manifold.

Had fire extinguisher at ready! (I keep one in all my vehicles)

So, update, She runs!
I removed the carburetor and did as much flushing and cleaning as I could without taking the whole thing apart.
It worked!
The throttle was stiff but a quick shot of PB Blaster freed that up (I'll follow with some proper oil later)

I was feeding the engine with a modified bottle about two feet above carburetor and it would run for maybe 20 seconds before it quit.
I know the carb is not optimum so not sure why this is. I can increase and decrease RPM with a twist of the throttle.

Perhaps I need greater fuel pressure than 2 feet of head pressure it's getting from a bottle hanging off the hood?

I've got some blueish smoke at the exhaust but that could be (?) from the ATF I dosed each of the cylinders with after removing plugs to lube top end.

Somewhere I have a lift pump from my diesel suburban. Perhaps that could temporarily take the place of the stock fuel pump for experimentation.

Thanks for your help, everybody! What did we do before the internet?"

That being the case (and as I had suspected), have SMS make you a set. It will fit perfectly. Someone on this forum recently bought a cheap set online and you get what you pay for as it didn't fit so money wasted.

My 53 Cavalier has some pretty sketchy repairs along the bottom of both sides, including some pretty heavy bondo in places. Collecting parts to redo this at some point, it's going to require some surgery.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1RPQku3ZPkjBLqoe/?mibextid=kL3p88

Low rust but needs everything 1937 project. Only 2 grand in PA.
Quick, before someone parts it out...

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I suspect it would depend on where it's from as I've had four (a 1951 300, a 1952 Patrician and two 1954 Patricians) with no rot whatsoever anywhere. The 1951-1954 Henney-Packards were very prone to rust in the doglegs, though, as they did not have any drain holes as the passenger cars did.

My personal suggestion is to simply use a tiny clevis pin secured by a tiny cotter pin. McMaster has both: 98306A100 and 98401A409. But your local hardware store probably has them too without having to buy a whole pile.

I asked Ross also, he likes to tap a 10-24 hole thru the hole in the selector shaft arm then just run a screw through with a nylock nut. Obviously the nut should not be completely tightened. This gives the mechanism very little play, which makes this a fast and good solution. Except: on Push Button transmissions, the motor relies on this play to not nudge the manual valve out from its detents, so this can't be done on transmissions using those.

They were not.

Also, if I remember the stamping font/size was different. Also I have a faint memory of a star/asterisk also on another example I saw.

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Maybe that is the number I was referring to and just didn't remember the N at the front. On the one I was thinking of there was a discussion early in the forum -- maybe not long after the serial numbers were posted when the owner asked for help in understanding his number.