The threaded pin and bushing gives a good deal of surface area contact and limits endwise movement. The joint is both grease-filled and heavily loaded. I don't think the clearance you are observing would cause any issues. In fact, I think you'd have problems if the fit was any tighter.

Some cars used that type of pin and bushing at both the lower and upper outer A-frame pivots, as well as the inner A frame pivots. They worked well as long as they were kept greased.

Packard used a combination of rubber and metal-to-metal in the interest of a superior ride.

Later model vehicles went to all rubber bushings. They also work well, but may give up a little in steering geometry stability in order to get a better ride and lower first cost along with less maintenence.

I believe that either the old or the new parts are fit for use. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the internal threads in the bushings are slightly "hour glass" shaped by design.

There is some give in the suspension parts by design. Where metal to metal parts are used, some clearance is necessary to prevent binding and galling.

Rubber bushings are often used in suspension joints to allow limited "give", which prevents binding and absorbs some road harshness. I believe the Packard Saf T Flex system used both metal to metal and rubber bushings to give a selective balance of compliance and rigidity.

The exception would be the kingpin to knuckle bushing/needle bearing fit, which intended to be snug.

You might want to look at this video about brake adjustment if you haven't worked with drum brakes before.https://youtu.be/T1Zc3aW18Z4

Because it's frightfully easy to do, I'd pull the t-stat and reassemble it and run it for a bit. I'm of the opinion that, if the cooling system is okay, then it wouldn't come to temp. No engine I have ever run would without a t-stat. If it doesn't get hot, then I think you could rule out the cooling system and investigate something else, like a blown head gasket.

Measured the play on two new ones. At a distance of 2.5 cm from the bushing, the play was 0.38 mm on one, and 0.30 on the other.

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Hi all,
I have to agree with West Peterson: I recently sent Apple a shock for rebuilding. I received an invoice, which I paid before they returned the shock. When I received the shock, they had not opened it (the Houdaille shock on the 1929 Packard required that the weld on the back of the shock be cut in order to access the internals). I don't have a recommendation for another rebuilder.

Pic

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I think I need to adjust brakes like u mentioned..have no leaks at all…I had no idea about the adjustment pin…or how to set rear brakes… I’m looking at adjusting pin now…it looks pretty rusted…I can pb blast big nut and loosen…but what tool to turn the slot to adjust….looks like huge straight tip screwdriver?

Got them at kanter

Weasel Word: "about"


I can see the difference in the material in the block and crank for the difference in main bearing count. That kind of thinking is why I presumed that a RB block would be heavier than a B block, but I'm taking that guy's word for it.


I still covet that antique scale.