To use the later engine you have only to transfer over the mounting details from your old engine: water pump, front plate, motor mount arch etc. Gives you a much larger pool of engines to fish in.

Misc. new mfg. Packard parts / services:

https://www.gatsbyautoworx.com/shop

*UPDATE*
After I had rounded up all the tools I still needed, I went through the carburetor one last time and did the AP valves and metering rod adjustments as well as redoing the pump stroke, high idle, and choke adjustments (this time I actually had wire gauges to ensure accuracy.) sure enough- after the adjustments were redone it fired up and stayed running like a top! I believe my main problem had to do with the choke being adjusted wrong. While doing the repairs, I also noticed that the hot air tube for the choke needed fixing.

Thank you all for your invaluable help.

I agree with Mal, I installed a 54 327 bored out to 340 and run a Holley 600 and Packard R6 OD into my 1938 Richards 1601 ( 120). I literally tore all of the spot welds from the axle tube doing a "rabbit" getaway ( diff rotates and separates the drive train). There should be plenty of good serviceable going 327's in the big pond that is the US. In OZ and NZ we have a very small pond with not too many Packards. The $700 Packard 327 on offer should do the trick. Peter T

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Be aware though that a '53/'54 engine ia not a straight drop in into your '49. Engine mounts changed at some stage between earlier year 288/327's and later year 288/327's. I don't know the change date/year, but it happened. Maybe one of our more in-depth/knowledgeable Members can supply more specific information?

I would exactly mark the washer location of the center pivot bolt on the bottom side of the front cross member to aid in getting it back in the same position which will help with front end sheet metal alignment if your aligned is currently good between the fenders, hood, firewall and grill shell.

Also, if you could how many turns it took to remove the nut, that would help to get it back to the same "squish" on the rubber mount there.

Thanks, Kev

Sounds like what I was thinking…a lot of disassembly. If I’m to attempt this, it’s going to take some time for me to work up the nerve!

There are bolts at the top and sides, and the large pivot bolt at the bottom. Obviously the firewall rods are in the way as is the hood.

If it was possible to get all the bolts out and remove the large nut underneath the front cross member, then you'd have to tilt the radiator in and up to get that bottom bolt to clear the cradle.

I'd image the fan and waterpump would be in the way.


Otherwise, you'd have to do what I did. Remove hood, remove bumper and supports. Remove Headlights, remove fenders, remove nuts from the firewall wall rods. Remove lower pivot bolt nut, remove all hoses. Take off the grille surround. Then you can pull the core support, and radiator out as an assemble. Lay it down on a blanket and remove the bolts that holds it to the core support and also that bottom pivot bolt.

Reverse the process to install. I should have many of the pictures in my blog.

Next question….

If I were to remove the radiator to get it to a shop, how does it come out? I know the front clip can come off as one assembly, but I don’t have the space or hoist to do that?

Also, If I go that route, then it opens the door give some attention to other items that I don’t know if they were tended to back in 2004. Such as, timing chain, timing pan seals, center steering bearing etc… The front motor mount was just replaced by Allen.

Any thoughts on this approach?

Regarding my fuel issue…I know my heat riser is out of commission….rusted/stuck and no counter weight. Based on what others have said, I’m pretty confident that it must be in the open position. But, I don’t know how to verify that?

Can someone tell me how I can verify?