I've had a number of older engines that have shown some lifters spinning and some not. Also pushrods on OHV engines. I never had any problems with them.

I would not put either new lifters or used lifters from another engine on a used cam.


If you remove any lifters from a used engine, keep track of where they go and put them back exactly where they were.

If the engine runs well with minimal valve train noise, it's probably best to leave it alone, unless an adjustment is clearly needed.

Valve lash adjustment on older engines can be complicated by wear on lifters and valve stems, which can make using a feeler gauge difficult.

In such cases, you may have to adjust by ear, which involves loosening each valve lifter adjustment and decreasing clearance just to the point of eliminating any noise, then backing off another fraction and locking the adjustment.

A little excess clearance is better than too little. Make adjustments hot as directed by the shop manual. Too little clearnce will burn valves.

Today I wasn’t out at the shop for long but got the u-joints pressed out of the rusty driveshaft. They were sure stuck but my little cheapie press got the job done with the aid of lots of PBlaster.

The plan was to have it sandblasted tomorrow, then put in the new u-joints but it is so bad that even as rough as the car is, I don’t want to install it that way. So the alternate plan is to take the proper yoke from it and put in on the other better shaft on which someone has replaced the yoke with a smaller one.

To that end, I am taking it to Napa in Redmond in the morning where it will be shuttled by them to their Bend machine shop about 30 miles south where the work will be done.

In the photos, the upper photo is the proper yoke while the lower one has a replacement. The replacement was apparently put on by adding a sleeve over the shaft’s end so I hope the tube itself wasn’t cut.

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I knew the ball went under the accelerator pump but couldn't figure out where the brass piece went. It's as clear as day on the diagram! I'll be working on one of these pretty soon too so good to know.

My advice is to adjust the valves and keep driving the car long into the future. I hardly ever have a car here where all 16 are spinning and while not perhaps ideal, it doesn't seem to make one whit of difference.

DP, you are the Man!
I can rest easy, Danke.

Good to know the resistance. I updated the chart to indicate 37 and hopefully the same range is used for other years around that time.

Most 288s would be solid lifters.

I did a little more tweaking on the fuel sender as I was getting 5ohm to 38ohm and still the reading was a little jumpy. Sometimes just up over a 1000ohms momentarily. The 5ohm was enough to make never go alway the way to empty.

Found the issue on the end of wound resistor wire, there is a super small peened over nub that is part of the end of the terminal stud. The peened over area was completely worn away which causes the resistor wire be loose or barely make contact with the terminal stud. So what to do?

So I replaced the terminal stuff with a bolt. Now end of the resistor wire is now wedged between the head of the bolt and the insulator.

Put it back together and now the ohm range reads 1 to 30. Which fully spans between E and F when hooked to the guage.

I can live with that. If it fails in a couple of years down the road, then I will deal with it then. But for now, it works.

See

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=450&topic_id=23113&order=ASC&status=&mode=0

While the artwork is from a WCFB the concept is the same.

dp

ps If the link doesn't work it is posting 451, page 46, of KPack's 1954 Panama project blog.

Good thoughts, guys.
I have the 1939 Carter directions too & even under enlargement, I am not sure.
I have the accelerator ball & spring in (no screen was present on my '40) but the kit came with 2 balls.
It does seem like the needle goes down the hole in the second photo.
Anyone else?