Gusha, you realize that the TV wasn't made by Packard but by Bendix, a company still very much in business supplying brake systems and components to the car and truck/bus industries?

I wonder what response a letter to Bendix asking about copies of TV service bulletins would bring? They certainly were very responsive a few years ago when I requested similar information and parts lists for their B-K system used on the mechanical brake system of Senior Packards 1836 and back.

Quote: Not quite sure what the question is but I am hoping he finds something, but not expecting it. As to any agency, I don't know what is here that would be interested in a 60 year old long out of business car company in that respect--and at any rate, am sure it wouldn't be free if there is such a place.

In order to suck fluid, would expect a severely pitted piston rod or cracked & damaged seal but would think that would be noticed in spongy brakes beforehand. Because of mounting angle, don't think enough would be drained out to have complete failure--but can't prove that so another reason for his evaluation as to whether any fluid & where. It is possible if fluid completely empty in cylinder, something external to BTV is the issue.

Since the failure was so sudden and if it is BTV, I am leaning more toward the compensator valve--either sediment and junk in the lower cylinder which because of the mounting angle floats up and lodges directly under the valve lip preventing it from closing tightly, or as others have mentioned many times, the small spring & clip that keeps the valve in position is usually not replaced in a rebuild and might be either broken or the clip holding spring to the rod dislodged. If the valve itself wasn't replaced with the rebuild, it might also be at fault.

At any rate, no matter what the system be it manual or power, catastrophic failures can happen. I had a manual 64 Chevelle fail and went gliding thru a 4 way stop. Would still like to see if we can come up with something bolt in or minimal mod for the Packards though for just these types of situations and people that have lost confidence. So far, while there have been solutions, except for Craigs they all require more changes than I think the average owner would consider. The BTV replacement advertised may be a viable option but I no longer have a test car to play with. Am considering buying one and trying superficial fit, but my car isn't apart & hasn't gone further than the driveway in years so with 4 square tires, it won't get tested. Not having any heavy fabrication skills or equipment like Eric or Craig will also be an issue.

Someone asked if earlier years were also prone to failure, and I can't answer that but they sure do not get the airplay the V8 does. The only major difference I can think of is heat is on the other side of engines in earlier cars whereas V8's have an exhaust manifold very close so maybe that has something to do with it.

I am at the juncture now of running a new gas line up front. At this point I don't have the OEM fuel pump, don't have carb installed, still trying to resolve my pickup tube in the original fuel transmitter. I do have a very clean tank, new straps, and a new muffler system installed. So the gas side is up for grabs at this point, while I run new brake lines to the rear, so we can reinstall the body shell next weekend.

BigKev-

How about an article in FAQ regarding this? This looks like a good succinct answer to start with, Dave did a good job of putting it all together. Maybe the line diagram you did last year showing the bypass.

Not sure what else is included in kit but seems a bit high for what is shown. Great Plains Packards region of PAC advertises an AC 6v pump with fittings, mountings and instructions for $75 postpaid in latest Cormorant News Bulletin. Summit racing has a Carter GP4259 6 volt rotary with all the mounting for $99-- although that may not be satisfactory for your needs since it would also require some extra pieces and plumbing if you are just wanting something inline to use with the existing mechanical pump for a backup.

My opinion is that is a lot of money for what can be bought from other suppliers for much less! They are listed on ebay now for about $48.
Personally I really don't see the need for one as the original mechanical pumps give long and reliable service.
If you do install one and plan to use it as your main pump and do not run the gas line to bypass the mechanical pump be aware that if the diaphram on the mechanical pump breaks gas will flow directly into the crankcase. Another consideration is that(heaven forbid) the car is involved in an accident the pump may still be running if the engine has stopped and the gas line is ruptured. Modern cars with electric pumps have a switch that shuts the pump off in event of a collision. I have an electric pump like this on my Packard to help me start the car after sitting for long periods but never use it as my main pump for the reason stated. If in the event of the mechanical pump failing I have made up a bypass kit (rubber hose and fittings) that I made up to bypass the mechanical pump although changing to a spare mechanical pump is just as easy.
The Packard Club website has some excellent articles on how to install an electric pump safely as was done on some makers of fire engines many years ago.
packardclub.org/
open website and look for "Tech Tips" section on left side menu. Open Tech Tips and scroll down to "Electric Fuel Pump"

I'm in colorado this weekend (where I live) and I think Merritt is closed on Sat and Sunday. I am certain they will take it back and get ahold of them monday. Thanks for the info

The fuel pump number on this one is 1521814

My AC listing shows that pump as fitting a 1935/1936 Auburn Six. What does Max say about taking it back and supplying the correct pump?

Might as well crack this subject open.....

Bill Obrien posted having an electric fuel pump installed on his "36 Packard Running Poorly" thread


packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... orum=1&post_id=39239#forumpost39239


I see Max Merritt shows an electric Fuel Pump (6 volt motor) kit for $125 available....

Any one have any experience with this or precautions?

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I have motor number 68592

The fuel pump number on this one is 1521814

I bought it from Max Merritt and they have it listed (and the image I started this thread off with) on their internet catalog for the 1936 120 model only. I am assuming they have someone who rebuilds these, as with most things requiring a core exchange.

I purchase quite a bit stuff from them and never had a problem; and they can get me most things by the next day (since they are about 3 hours away).